SummitPost.org

Did I eat too much lettuce or isn't the crux pitch of the "squeeze" right off the first belay? ? My memory may be failing.


Dave I've seen pics of you on power dome in aproachies, give your self at least credit for 10+ on slab...dude I know you climb that on face and slabs harder, right? BTW I too learned on slab and prefer other forms of climbing, but there is something about it isn't there? I don't think I've ever woken up and said, shit I'd love to get on some slab today, but to me hard slab (my hard may be some one elses easy) is really rewarding.

-jr

JR -

The whole approach shoe thing stemmed from the simple fact I had forgot my climbing shoes that day. But I was feeling pretty damn confident, and even cocky, on steep slab the last couple of years. Hell, I was all set to go out with a partner to do 'Silver Lining' (.9/.10a R+) on The Fin, Sequoia NP in the spring of 2004 until.......

.....I ran into a slab route in Joshua Tree at Sheeps Pass, identified only as 'Unknown' (.10b) in Nov. 2003. After a 40' fall to the deck and a busted left ankle, I took a more respected approach to slab climbing.

Yep, slab climbing can be humbling.

savage henry wrote:Did I eat too much lettuce or isn't the crux pitch of the "squeeze" right off the first belay? ? My memory may be failing.
-jr

Your memory is fine, at least in this case...

The crux is the start of P2, just above where Jan is clowning around in the picture Dave posted upthread. Speaking of Jan, doesn't he know climbing is a serious, dangerous activity? Where is his helmet? Where are his three cordalettes and six locking biners?

ksolem wrote:

savage henry wrote:Did I eat too much lettuce or isn't the crux pitch of the "squeeze" right off the first belay? ? My memory may be failing.
-jr

Your memory is fine, at least in this case...

The crux is the start of P2, just above where Jan is clowning around in the picture Dave posted upthread. Speaking of Jan, doesn't he know climbing is a serious, dangerous activity? Where is his helmet? Where are his three cordalettes and six locking biners?

And where is his little gnome hat?

Uh guys.... I am not allowed to wear a gnome hat anymore. I have been officially upgraded(?) to 'That God Damn Dwarf'. I guess I sandbagged one too many people while bouldering and they changed my entire station in life.

And climbing is dangerous? Since when?

Since you sandbagged one to many people. You're number is up now...

bump