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Looking for a partner interested in climbing the V-notch (3-days needed) in the next 14 days. Most recent photo i saw showed the palisade couloirs as snow right now. My schedule is in flux but i am likely free midweek as well. trying to get a feel for people's interest/availability...

also, i forgot to ask that if someone has just been there, can u please post your photos/conditions info. thanks!

http://www.its.caltech.edu/~alpine/sierra10.shtml

TR and links to a few picture albums. I would be interested in joining but can only do 2 days (Fri night at TH, Sat approach to Gayley Camp, Sunday up and down). I could meet you at Gayley if you want 2 days for the approach. If everyone else is busy, PM me

hamik wrote:http://www.its.caltech.edu/~alpine/sierra10.shtml

TR and links to a few picture albums. I would be interested in joining but can only do 2 days (Fri night at TH, Sat approach to Gayley Camp, Sunday up and down). I could meet you at Gayley if you want 2 days for the approach. If everyone else is busy, PM me

wow! Sweet photos and TRs you got there Hamik. Thanks for sharing with SP. Question for ya... To get to Gayley Camp, did you go through Sam Mack Meadow before heading up to the palisade basin? There is a possibility I might be going this thurs but that's 50/50 right now. I will shoot ya PM to discuss further...

It's much easier to just go up the snow gully to the right of temple crag. It's the most direct route to Gayley camp. It starts from the far southwest corner of 3rd lake. The route from Sam Mack is rather indirect, although the meadows are a very beautiful place.

gdrayna wrote:It's much easier to just go up the snow gully to the right of temple crag. It's the most direct route to Gayley camp. It starts from the far southwest corner of 3rd lake. The route from Sam Mack is rather indirect, although the meadows are a very beautiful place.

thanks gdrayna... i will have to look at the map more closely.... i have been up there a few times but not via that slope/gully.

btw, is there anyone from southern-cal interested in climbing liberty ridge. i have an experienced partner ready to climb it in orgeon, but i am looking for someone from down here interested/willing to drive up there with me to climb that and maybe something else in the cascades (May 2-9).

The crux on the approach is crossing the logjam at the outlet of 3rd Lake...
Seriously, be wary of hidden (snow covered) black ice near the top of the gully.

David, I've gone up to the Palisades many times in the winter and have always taken the gully directly to Gayley camp. You can't miss it. There's a big dump in the Sierra this past weekend.

These are from march 27th. It has snowed about 4 feet since then.
The V had two very small patches of ice showing then. The bergshrund was beginning to open, but you should still be able to walk over it in spots.



Looking down the V:

Be careful at the berg. I was with a large group (C.A.C.) that did U notch + chimney variation to North Pal a week and a half ago and we managed to break the snow bridge when coming down. One person fell completely in (and self rescued thankfully). Just be aware.

bcd wrote:These are from march 27th. It has snowed about 4 feet since then.
The V had two very small patches of ice showing then. The bergshrund was beginning to open, but you should still be able to walk over it in spots.

sweet photos BCD! thanks for the heads up and congrats on your climb.

gdrayna wrote:Be careful at the berg. I was with a large group (C.A.C.) that did U notch + chimney variation to North Pal a week and a half ago and we managed to break the snow bridge when coming down. One person fell completely in (and self rescued thankfully). Just be aware.

GD thanks for the info and good to hear your buddy escaped okay. snowbridges are always a game of roulette. we plan to be roped when we approach the bergschrund. in summer or fall, i am less afraid of them since they tend to be stable at that time of year... but now...

kevin trieu wrote:David, I've gone up to the Palisades many times in the winter and have always taken the gully directly to Gayley camp. You can't miss it. There's a big dump in the Sierra this past weekend.

EManBevHills wrote:The crux on the approach is crossing the logjam at the outlet of 3rd Lake...
Seriously, be wary of hidden (snow covered) black ice near the top of the gully.

thanks for the info u guys... looks like me and Carlos are bringing snowshoes for this one. we are leaving thursday morning... i guess we gotta be careful for what we ask for! heehehehee....

wow! we turned around at 1st lake. we needed snowshoes from 1 mile (@ waterfall) into the northfork trail. this last small storm dumped a lot of new snow. looks like mid-feb up there right now. snow started at trailhead. hehehhehee....

i knew we were in for it when i saw how low the snowline was as we were driving up to the trailhead near the glacier lodge. approach to palisades would be great in skis right now! i have brought my b.c. skis but my partner doesn't have that setup.

so... i am skiing the sierra b.c. this weekend!!! btw, i am still looking for a socal partner interested in driving with me to washington to climb Liberty Ridge the week of May 2-9. My partner in Oregon and i are safe climbers and experienced on glacier travel.