SummitPost.org

Can anyone reference me to a guide to climb El Cap with? I have been on walls up to grade V before and can lead 5.12 sport / 5.10 trad. I know there is YMS, but I am not interested in them. Thanks.

Contact the park and ask them who is licensed to guide in Yosemite.

i wonder if this is one of those posts to get the unlicensed guides to come out of the woodwork? first post?


i'm such a cynic these days.

meh

mungeclimber wrote:i wonder if this is one of those posts to get the unlicensed guides to come out of the woodwork? first post?


i'm such a cynic these days.

meh

Hmmmm....I think he should email Weld_it, from over on supertaco

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum ... for-El-Cap

mungeclimber wrote:i wonder if this is one of those posts to get the unlicensed guides to come out of the woodwork? first post?


i'm such a cynic these days.

meh

First post here, 10,000th on the net. If someone is interested they can look me up on Facebook under my real name before talking to me.

Why not put the money into assembling your own big wall outfit and work your way up? Start with Washington Column and Half Dome and climb with friends. Aid is not rocket science or me and the others dolts would not have climbed them. Unlike Steve House ,I've never lost boots on a ledge but came close . Have a great climb !

If you can climb valley 5.10, you should have no problem with the nose, as long as you are fast and have a equally strong partner (or fast jugger) and thus can avoid guide costs and spend the money on pizza and beer post climb.

if you can free climb mid 5.10 what gear do you need for the nose? a set of lightweight aiders and a adjustable daisy? I really want to do the smallest amount of aid possible. do it in 2 days. how feasible is that for the everyman? also, is any special gear needed? like a slightly beefed up crag rack to BD #4 would be fine right?

Reading all those PM's must drive the Park people crazier .

MarkDurford wrote:

mungeclimber wrote:i wonder if this is one of those posts to get the unlicensed guides to come out of the woodwork? first post?


i'm such a cynic these days.

meh

First post here, 10,000th on the net. If someone is interested they can look me up on Facebook under my real name before talking to me.

Just tried to find you on FB under Mark Durford and nothing comes up. I'm chalking this up to a troll looking to fish out illegal guides.

..

Weird

OK, I'll bite. Why are you not interested in YMS? They have some pretty well respected guides affiliated with them, e.g., Doug Nidever.

I guess YMS charges too much money? Mark, which route are you doing on el cap? I assume the Nose?

divnamite wrote:I guess YMS charges too much money? Mark, which route are you doing on el cap? I assume the Nose?

Yep, the Nose. The reason why I did not want to hire YMS is because they do not let you lead and a large sum of the payment goes to Delaware North for doing pretty much no work. Then yes the price is part of the reason. Its not worth it to pay some 3500 to jug 2/3rds a mile of rope. If I am going to pay that much I want to actually climb the thing, not ascend a rope next to it. There are other guides who charge less and actually allow you to climb the thing instead of jug the whole thing which is why I am not interested in them.