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If anyone is going to the Wintun Glacier, see you there!

snowflake wrote:If anyone is going to the Wintun Glacier, see you there!

Where are you starting your approach?

System isn't moving fast enuf! Now it's near freezing on Saturday!

IMO The weekend forecast looks great -- you guys should just go for it Remember, the Mt. Shasta recreational forecast is for something like 6000' .. you have to extrapolate to higher elevations.

Is it still no running water (spring) at Horse Camp right now?
Is there at least plenty of snow we can melt at the Horse Camp?
Any updates on the avalanche conditions on the Av Gulch route?
What is the recommended time to leave for the summit from Helen Lake for average climbers (1AM, 3AM, 5AM)?

rhyang wrote:IMO The weekend forecast looks great -- you guys should just go for it Remember, the Mt. Shasta recreational forecast is for something like 6000' .. you have to extrapolate to higher elevations.

I'm on to the weather over 11K' Rob. It's an 11 hour drive for me to get up there in sub-freezing temps (with wind chill) and be unable to ascend or DESCEND safely with skis (either on my feet or my back). I'll wait..............

Alexsuv--Is it still no running water (spring) at Horse Camp right now? No

Is there at least plenty of snow we can melt at the Horse Camp? Yes

Any updates on the avalanche conditions on the Av Gulch route? call the 5th season hotline, they have been updating it everyday and I talked to the gal that works there, very friendly and knowledgable on whats up on the mountain. 5309265555-hotline


What is the recommended time to leave for the summit from Helen Lake for average climbers (1AM, 3AM, 5AM)? Cant help ya there

alexsuv wrote:Is it still no running water (spring) at Horse Camp right now?
Is there at least plenty of snow we can melt at the Horse Camp?
Any updates on the avalanche conditions on the Av Gulch route?
What is the recommended time to leave for the summit from Helen Lake for average climbers (1AM, 3AM, 5AM)?

Regarding the first two questions -- have a look at the USFS climber's advisory -

http://www.shastaavalanche.org/advisori ... g-advisory

This time of year there is light in the sky around 5-ish. I'd aim to be near the Red Banks when you can see. In the past I've left Helen Lake around 5:30-ish and been up around the Red Banks before 8.

These days my pace is a bit slower and when I do a nontechnical route on Shasta I tend to leave camp (usually ~10000') somewhat earlier, usually around 4am. But I know people who would probably leave at 2 or 3am instead because they would expect their pace to be slower.

Hi, does anyone know how long the walk is from where the car does not go any further to the Brewer creek trailhead? And how about North Gate? We would like to explore the east side, e.g. wintun hotlum.
Thanks for the response.

letzkov wrote:Hi, does anyone know how long the walk is from where the car does not go any further to the Brewer creek trailhead? And how about North Gate? We would like to explore the east side, e.g. wintun hotlum.
Thanks for the response.

Letzkov,

Check the Shasta Avalanche.org Climber's advisory page. When exploring the access to Brewer Creek and Clear Creek trailheads two weeks ago I found their report on conditions and approach distances to be right on the chilli.

telewoman wrote: It's best to leave from Helen Lake at day break(around 5-5:30) especially heading up the Heart and going through Redbanks. You want to be able to see any rock fall or anything else. ... Looks like it's really going to warm up this weekend. Be on alert for avalanche point releases on the slopes. Seen a lot this week. They happened in the afternoon. With the warm temps ,be on alert for rock fall and ice fall.

Looks like I have to find a fine balance between climbing in the dark and returning back before warming triggers rockfalls and avalanches. If I leave after 5AM I will probably get back to Helen Lake only by 1-2PM, the warmest part of the day (hence increased risks of rockfalls and avalanches). If I leave at 1AM I can be back earlier, but will climb in the darkness for the first 4 hours. So I will probably shoot for 3:30 or 4AM start as a good balance.

telewoman wrote:6 rescues already and it's only Saturday!!!

From Climbing Advisory-
***Update 9pm, Saturday, June 12: Not quite sure how to sum up today... 6 climbers were injured today with 5 requiring rescue. 4 climbers fell and slid 1000 to 1800 vertical feet suffering multiple fractures and a variety of injuries. 2 climbers were injured by falling ice chunks. 5 occurred in Avalanche Gulch and one near the Clear Creek route. What can I say... If an ice axe self arrest is not second nature, either take a class, go on a guided trip, or practice, practice practice. The snow is smooth and firm and high winds today helped knock over a few people. Wear a helmet. Ice is a rock, and when chunks are travelling downhill at 50 mph, they can do some damage. Look uphill; listen; yell to warn climbers below. And, oh ya, WEAR A HELMET! ***

All damn good advice, as usual!

I was there yesterday. The ice fall was really bad...not much you could do to avoid it. I got hit 3 or 4 times by ice chunks ranging from golf ball to grapefruit size (saw some even bigger skipping down close by). I decided to turn back after taking one square on the chest...my buddies kept going and one ended up taking 2 off the face before turning back (heard many other accounts like broken glasses, teeth, etc.). I also saw several people sliding down after taking hits from falling ice, one I saw self arrested, one did not and was eventually taken out by helicopter. I expect conditions should improve with less wind and once the ice is gone from the red banks, but until then I'd be very careful heading up with any significant ice fall coming down.

Just got back today (June 13). My son and I summitted just fine.

Apparently on Saturday the conditions were much worse as we heard some scary stories (several helicopter rescues, unconscious man taking the fall from the red banks, face injuries from the falling ice) from climbers coming back. So I guess we got lucky with the weather on Sunday.

We left at 4:30AM and mostly smaller size icicles were falling down from above climbers who were crushing the ice surface with crampons and ice axes. The was a constant ice fall of these icicles however only few of them any larger than a walnut. One of those hit me in the helmet when I was looking down, so no damage. I tried simply not to look ahead (and told my son not to look). Or protect the face with the gloved arm.

We took the route to the far right near the thumb rock where it seemed less risk of falling serious ice chunks from the red banks. There was windy above the red banks but too much (not swiping away). And it was sunny which was good.

I saw one guy sliding down the slope on the way back below the red banks. I was surprised he did not have ice axe in his hands, probably he dropped it during his fall. He was not sliding very fast but once he picked up the snow with his crampon (inadvertently) I saw that something really bad happened with his leg. He was later transported out by the helicopter. Many people took a video of the heli picking him up from the helen lake campground, so I expect some youtube video postages.

Great trip for us with some great challenges and actions but overall really successful. Thanks everyone!

I would expect climbing to be nice in one to two weeks. We were there Saturday and watched a lot of accidents. We were the first ones up trying to beat the wind and turned around at 13,000 as the winds increased. Conditions were ripe for accidents but crampons held well. We'll be back in July on the East side.