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I'm planning a trip next weekend to Mount Irvine and probably going to climb the East Chute route (Class 2). It looks like everything is snow-free in that area, can anyone confirm? Would anyone familiar with this route recommend a helmet for this time of year?

Also, the summitpost page for the East Couloir route calls it Class 2 but other sources say Class 4, can anyone confirm? Thanks.

I haven't done either of the east chutes but would wear a helmet.

Climbed Irvine last spring via one of the NE coulours, nice snow climb, and then came down via the bowl between Irvine and Mallory. In doing so we passed by the east chutes to get back to camp. I remember thinking how crappy they looked! I would expect lots of loose rock and perhaps some blocky class 4 type sections. What does Secor say about those routes? His book is always a great starting point for route beta.

pmorash wrote:I haven't done either of the east chutes but would wear a helmet.

Climbed Irvine last spring via one of the NE coulours, nice snow climb, and then came down via the bowl between Irvine and Mallory. In doing so we passed by the east chutes to get back to camp. I remember thinking how crappy they looked! I would expect lots of loose rock and perhaps some blocky class 4 type sections. What does Secor say about those routes? His book is always a great starting point for route beta.

Secor calls the East Chute Class 2-3 and the East Couloir Class 4. Thanks for the input.

We went up east chute of Irvine over labor day weekend, in order to access McAdie. We didn't bring ice axe. There is snow in the chute, but can be avoided because it doesn't fill the entire chute. Helmet is a great idea, it's a bit loose, and tedious on the way down. Good luck.

I haven't done that route, but I have been up and down that entire area to recommend a helmet. Lots of loose stuff through there and a rock to the head would ruin your day.

gregorpatsch wrote:
Secor calls the East Chute Class 2-3 and the East Couloir Class 4. Thanks for the input.

When the East Chute is full of snow, it's pretty steep & dicey if icy. Likely rather trivial if there's no snow, just loose junk.

MoabPeakBagger wrote:

gregorpatsch wrote:
Secor calls the East Chute Class 2-3 and the East Couloir Class 4. Thanks for the input.

When the East Chute is full of snow, it's pretty steep & dicey if icy. Likely rather trivial if there's no snow, just loose junk.

sometimes its perfect corn as seen in the tracks on the day pmorash is referencing above...

Made it to the summit of Irvine yesterday. Thanks for the input on the route...a helmet was good call, very loose and bit steeper than expected.