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Thinking about heading up here for the first time. Any body know what the righthand couloir(s) go at? I believe the Lefthand one is the Feather Couloir (AI2-3)

Yes, but you have to wait till fall for ice to form. It will be a snow slog now.

The couloir on the left is indeed Feather Couloir, more info here: http://www.mountainproject.com/v/feathe ... /106904462 Probably still a snow climb right now.

The lines on the right weren't in when I was there, so I'd be interested to hear about them.

The chutes on the right do not ice up. They are filled in with residual heavy winter snow and do eventually melt out by late August. Both the right in your photo are bomb chutes for the proverbial loose large boulders that sit all along the west ridge of Feather.

As far as the left true Feather Couloir, as VM mentioned, it won't be a true "ice" climb till at least late Sept this year with all the record snows.

When "in", it is no more than AI2ish and can be done in an hour.

Early August suggestions? The steeper, longer = better (up to AI3-4). Neve - hard ice. Or I need a partner for mixed lines, like Mendel...

e.g. North Peak, Harrington, etc...or the one on Split Mtn. Conditions for those, early august...

I remember an expic descent of the feather couloir in the early 2000s when we ate brownies from the 'wrong ziplock' at 3am when starting at the car. doh! needless tosay it was a great time to try a new snowboard! i think feather is too flat for your requiremnets, maybe you would like the checkered demon? it has mucho snow snow to turn to hielo!!!

epicclimb wrote:I remember an expic descent of the feather couloir in the early 2000s when we ate brownies from the 'wrong ziplock' at 3am when starting at the car. doh! needless tosay it was a great time to try a new snowboard! i think feather is too flat for your requiremnets, maybe you would like the checkered demon? it has mucho snow snow to turn to hielo!!!

Excellent suggestion. Others?

Couloir conditions last year...

Don't know about current conditions on Feather Peak, but here's a trip report from September 12, 2010:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Feather-Pea ... 0772n.html

and here's a link to N Peak conditions on September 8, 2010:
http://www.supertopo.com/tripreport/tri ... leid=10762

and links to N Peak, Dana, and U Notch couloirs in early August 2010:
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/North-Peak- ... 0739n.html

Have fun and be safe.