SummitPost.org

Yeah that bit of weather last week really helped out the skiing conditions. We went up Casaval on Monday and came down through around the middle or a touch east on the Red Banks. Which none of us were a huge fan of. The snow was balling like mad on top of the red banks, but seemed to make for awesome skiing conditions.

You know funny thing you mentioned the top of Misery Hill was good enough. There is something about that last bit before the pinnacle that just kills you on some occasions. Last September I did Clear Creek (south-east near Wintun Ridge) and I got to the 14k mark and was feeling like ass so I called it. This trip one of the guys made it to the base of the pinnacle and said that's it for him. Maybe it was overnight at 8k that did it, but I was feeling pretty top-notch the entire time (my last two trips were 1-day'ers). Now slow of course when you get to the top, no doubt, but feeling great.

Anyone gone to play on the west face recently?

OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG OMG

I think I just peed a little from excitement! Thanks, jib!

North Side of Mt Shasta as of June 1 – 3, 2012 (it was May by a mistake)

The north side of Shasta looks great. Beautiful snowy slopes provide many variations of climbing to the top. Over that weekend the snow itself was not too perfect for crampons, even at night (too warm), so a bit extra effort was needed to adjust to that. However, the wind (especially on Saturday night/Sunday) was the main factor of extra energy consumption. In addition Sunday whiteouts made navigation more challenging. The best day for summit was Friday; Saturday was still OK; Sunday only for experienced or lucky

On Friday I climbed up to ca 11,000 and set up my camp for the next few days. The forecast was not too good and basically worsening every day. On Saturday we practiced crevasse rescue techniques (the main purpose of this trip). On that afternoon the mountain look very inviting but no one wanted to climb; although, a few decided to go at midnight, after the snow hardens. Well, at 1 am (I had no communication with others due to their lower camp) I alone decided to test the wind which was blowing for the last several hours unpleasantly, hoping it to calm down a bit on the east side of HB ridge. However, the collapsing of supposedly hard snow about few inches after each step, the wind not giving up, the big circular cloud above the top, and the worsening forecast for the morning made me to conclude that this trip may become a “bit” more challenging than anticipated (I'm taking easy for a while ) and after 30 minutes went back to the tent. Sunday morning, the first 1 K feet I climbed down in whiteout. However, the wind was much weaker and no clouds around the standard base camp. At the TH, on the other hand, the weather was beautiful, calm and sunny, and the birds were singing so nicely I decided to hang out there for a few hours.

By the way, there was running water along the HB ridge, in some places quite visible strings (e.g. around the standard base camp) and at other places tinier strings. Just listen. I had running water very close to my camp.

Friday morning


Saturday evening


Sunday morning

Some friends just skiied it:
http://www.14ers.com/php14ers/tripreport.php?trip=12016

Was up there this past Wednesday. The trip report won't be up until next week on earnyourturns.com
But I got some pics.
http://www.flickr.com/search/?w=1174439 ... %2C%202012

Hi jibmaster, nice pictures and, I believe, the trip too. How was the snow? Thanks

SUPER SMOOTH!!!
Found a way to avoid all the sastrugi and wind affected snow.
Huge wet sluff on the Wintun.
Skied some north facing stuff from out of the Brewer Creek TH.

Anyone have shots of either sargeants or casaval?

I've got an interest in the snow levels on the West Gully and Avy gully. The Web-Cams don't seem to be terribly reliable

Skied last Wednesday.
http://www.earnyourturns.com/11870/shas ... r-13jun12/
going up again tomorrow...

Hi jibmaster, another great report of yours, thanks a lot.

I'm planning to get there over this weekend.

jibmaster wrote:Skied last Wednesday.
http://www.earnyourturns.com/11870/shas ... r-13jun12/
going up again tomorrow...

Great to see all that snow! Thanks

Climbed the Bolam Glacier route yesterday. The shrunds were easily crossed. Almost no bare ice exposed yet on the Bolam, Hotlum, or Whitney glaciers from what I saw. Spoke with a ranger and some climbers who said that snow bridges on the Whitney and other north side glacier routes were rapidly collapsing. One climber on the Whitney punched through a bridge.