SummitPost.org

mrchad9 wrote:

Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:

Simkin wrote:Had anyone free-soloed the glacier?

What do you mean by free-soloing the glacier?

Maybe he means not roping up on it. I don't think anyone ropes up on Palisade Glacier unless in a guided group and forced to.

If you search YouTube for "Climbing North Palisade" this video comes up the first

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KjtKGRBa7GM

This one second

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED9ZvmR-Bx4

Both use ropes.

Well the second one used rope for the U-Notch... not the glacier.

First one did though. Need ropes so your indoor friends give more Facebook likes.

mrchad9 wrote:Well the second one used rope for the U-Notch... not the glacier.

So what it was if it was not the glacier? A rock? Or, perhaps, a dune?

Sierra Ledge Rat wrote:What do you mean by free-soloing the glacier?

I did not invent the expression to free-solo the ice. This one is from EpicTv

The First Documented Free-Solo On This Yosemite Ice Route | Climbing Daily, Ep. 644
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cm6kPslOA18

Yes.

myles wrote:I never thought I'd see "free solo" and Palisade "glacier" in the same sentence. Life is long.

It is obvious from the videos that I posted that there is a very steep part on this glacier and that the vast majority of people will use ropes. What they actually do in the videos.

Simkin wrote:

myles wrote:I never thought I'd see "free solo" and Palisade "glacier" in the same sentence. Life is long.

It is obvious from the videos that I posted that there is a very steep part on this glacier and that the vast majority of people will use ropes. What they actually do in the videos.

The second video used the rope only in the U-Notch which is above the bergshrund and not part of the Palisade Glacier. The Palisade Glacier itself is not steep at all on any portion of it and people rope up to get off the glacier and into the ice chute.

mrchad9 wrote:The second video used the rope only in the U-Notch which is above the bergshrund and not part of the Palisade Glacier. The Palisade Glacier itself is not steep at all on any portion of it and people rope up to get off the glacier and into the ice chute.

I see. The glacier in the chute is technically not the part of the Palisade Glacier. Just like Brooklyn is not New York. But you need to climb it to get to the mountain.

Did you free solo that part? Is it AI2 as rated by this website? Less than 60 degrees? According to the description of the AI2 rating only one ice axe is needed. However it looks like everybody uses 2 ice axes.

Did you free-solo the chimney? Is it class 4 as in Secor? How do you interpret the 5.2-5.6 rating on this website?

Simkin
Male, No Age Specified
California, United States
Power = 3 (Vote Weight = 1%)
Occupation: scientist

I don't know why a scientist isn't understanding this... but I am not going to be able to help.

Carry on without me man.

mrchad9 wrote:I don't know why a scientist isn't understanding this...

Probably because he didn't go to Oxford like yourself.

Simkin wrote:It is obvious from the videos that I posted that there is a very steep part on this glacier and that the vast majority of people will use ropes.

Simkin wrote:I see. The glacier in the chute is technically not the part of the Palisade Glacier. Just like Brooklyn is not New York.

Simkin, I’m going to try to explain this to you, since I think you’re just ignorant, rather than a troll.

According to Webster, a glacier is “a very large area of ice that moves slowly down a slope or valley or over a wide area of land.” The bergschrund is the crevasse that forms where the glacier moves away from the mountain and the ice in the couloir. The Palisade Glacier is the large area of relatively low-angle ice below the bergschrund. The ice in the steeper U-Notch Couloir above the bergschrund is not part of the glacier. There are similar couloirs in the Sierra without glaciers below them.

Most people cross the Palisade Glacier unroped. Most people rope up to cross the bergschrund, to climb the couloir, and to climb the chimney. I don’t know whether mrchad9 has done this route unroped, but I have.

bobpickering wrote:Simkin, I’m going to try to explain this to you, since I think you’re just ignorant, rather than a troll.

According to Webster, a glacier is “a very large area of ice that moves slowly down a slope or valley or over a wide area of land.” The bergschrund is the crevasse that forms where the glacier moves away from the mountain and the ice in the couloir. The Palisade Glacier is the large area of relatively low-angle ice below the bergschrund. The ice in the steeper U-Notch Couloir above the bergschrund is not part of the glacier. There are similar couloirs in the Sierra without glaciers below them.

Not sure what you want to explain. It was already clear to me that the glacier in the U-notch is formally not a part of Palisade glacier.

But since you quoted Websters dictionary, I would like to point out an inconsistency. There is no crevasse in the videos. Just a wall of ice.

bobpickering wrote:Most people cross the Palisade Glacier unroped. Most people rope up to cross the bergschrund, to climb the couloir, and to climb the chimney. I don’t know whether mrchad9 has done this route unroped, but I have.

Can I see the video? What is the true rating of the chimney in your opinion?

Simkin wrote:Can I see the video?

I go into the wilderness to climb, not to make videos to post on YouTube. You can check my profile to see what I’ve climbed, but there aren’t any videos for you to see.

Simkin wrote: What is the true rating of the chimney in your opinion?

It was “old school” class 4 the first time I did it. With rating inflation, it would be lower class 5 now.

Simkin wrote:Not sure what you want to explain. It was already clear to me that the glacier in the U-notch is formally not a part of Palisade glacier.

You still don’t seem to understand that the ice in the couloir is not a glacier. Do I need to explain it again?

Simkin wrote:There is no crevasse in the videos. Just a wall of ice.

The first video shows the bergschrund/crevasse very clearly at 0:10 to 0:13. The second video shows the bergschrund at 0:11 to 0:27. The climber even says “The bergschrund is right here.” Only a troll would say there is no crevasse.

Not sure what you want to explain. It was already clear to me that the glacier in the U-notch is formally not a part of Palisade glacier.

But since you quoted Websters dictionary, I would like to point out an inconsistency. There is no crevasse in the videos. Just a wall of ice.

gotta correct you - the ice in the u-notch is not a glacier. I just quickly looked at the two videos you previously posted and quickly saw the crevasse (which is technically a bergschrund) in both videos.

my guess is that Bob didn't have a gopro when he soloed it, so no video.

I have not climbed the route, but I would assume the consensus rating of the chimney to the summit of north pal is correct at 5.6.
here is a link to the stats page for the route on mountain project
http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ ... =105804285

edit: bob beat me to it

powderjunkie wrote:gotta correct you - the ice in the u-notch is not a glacier.

Why do you refuse the permanent ice in the chute the dignified name of a glacier?

powderjunkie wrote:I just quickly looked at the two videos you previously posted and quickly saw the crevasse (which is technically a bergschrund) in both videos.

And I don't see a crevasse. Don't see a Bergschrund. I see a Bergwand.

powderjunkie wrote:I have not climbed the route, but I would assume the consensus rating of the chimney to the summit of north pal is correct at 5.6.
here is a link to the stats page for the route on mountain project
http://www.mountainproject.com/scripts/ ... =105804285

What consensus are you talking about? Secor rates it class 4. This site rates it 5.2-5.6.

Sorry, I'm going to have to bow out of this conversation as well. Please be safe in the mountains.