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crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:02 am
by ffschooley
Im planning a trip to climb thundbolt peak this august. We are planning on one of the more technical east face routes. I am wondering if crampons are necessary or if microspikes would surfice? We would only need them for crossing the glacier and the bergschrund. Any thougts?

Re: crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 12:12 am
by mrchad9
I made it into Underhill Couloir last spring without them, just normal boots. It wasn't dicy, but I suppose at times it could be. Still if I were to repeat that I wouldn't plan to take them.

Re: crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Sat Feb 23, 2013 11:52 pm
by ffschooley
Thanks for the info. Did you cross the glacier directly or is it possible to skirt the edge? Just trying to figure out why eveyone is using crampons and ice axes...

Re: crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Sun Feb 24, 2013 3:34 am
by artrock23
ffschooley wrote:Just trying to figure out why eveyone is using crampons and ice axes...


At a guess, i'd say because they feel safer doing so?

As for me, if there's snowfields or glaciers to cross, I default to bringing ice axe and crampons. I may not end up needing them, but better to have the choice.
Some people feel fine without 'em. Many times it comes down to personal preference, I think.

Re: crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:18 pm
by TheNobleSunfish
Be alert that there is probably more crevasse danger than usual, since last year's very dry winter let a lot more form! Most of the big ones I noticed when I was there in October were on the Sill side:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/7301483@N02/8024102141/in/photostream

Re: crossing palisades glacier

PostPosted: Mon Feb 25, 2013 5:27 pm
by mrchad9
Oops! I don't know why I wrote spring in my post above. It was September so very late summer.

We went up the moraine on the right side. So mostly on solid ground. As it was late it the season (and early in the morning) it was a bit icy on the glacier but it wasn't steep, lots of rocks around, and as I said not dicy at all. No crevasses or anything of note right there either. Entering the underhill couloir across the bergshrund would be the only spot they could possibly be necessary, but when we went our entire group of six went over with only hiking boots and no ax or crampons. I don't think anyone had poles either.

I've no idea why many people take crampons there. I suppose some might like to carry a cache of small rocks to the summit too!