SummitPost.org

jibmaster wrote:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDn6S55UybeSrfrpoZ51OfA
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jibmaster/

I’m hoping to do Whitney/Bolum or Hotlum/Bolum Glaciers (not ridges) over the Memorial Day weekend. Any feedback about THs access? I know it’s still two weeks ahead but it should only get better. Thanks

The Coquette Falls TH is open. No snow on the road.
Brewer Creek is almost open. Heard that stubborn drift just before the last switchback is still there. Didn't drive over there, but hiking up should be a breeze.
The snowline is about 9000' on the north side, but looked to be maybe around treeline on the east side (8000').

clmbr wrote:

jibmaster wrote:https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDn6S55UybeSrfrpoZ51OfA
https://www.flickr.com/photos/jibmaster/

I’m hoping to do Whitney/Bolum or Hotlum/Bolum Glaciers (not ridges) over the Memorial Day weekend. Any feedback about THs access? I know it’s still two weeks ahead but it should only get better. Thanks

The Bolam Glacier was in great shape on May 5th. It was cold up there. Everything is still pretty frozen. No crevasses open yet.

Alpinist wrote:

clmbr wrote:I’m hoping to do Whitney/Bolum or Hotlum/Bolum Glaciers (not ridges) over the Memorial Day weekend. Any feedback about THs access? I know it’s still two weeks ahead but it should only get better. Thanks

The Bolam Glacier was in great shape on May 5th. It was cold up there. Everything is still pretty frozen. No crevasses open yet.

Thanks. Any pics?

In that case perhaps Hotlum and Whitney.

How is the NG TH access?

Coquette Falls TH is excellent for accessing the Whitney Glacier.
I would use Brewer Creek for the best access to the Hotlum.
Take a right above tree line. This route takes you by the Chicago Glacier as well.
http://www.earnyourturns.com/11870/shas ... r-13jun12/

North Gate TH is open. I've stopped using it due to the useless winding around through the trees to get to snow line.
Coquette offers direct access to the Hotlum/Bolum ridge if you head left above treeline.



Plus, I like the more wilderness feel to the Coquette Falls TH. No parking lot. No bathrooms. Less people.
Additionally, it's more fun to drive for me in my Jeep. Don't be discouraged though. A stock subie made it one time.
http://www.earnyourturns.com/11545/shas ... tte-falls/

jibmaster wrote:The Coquette Falls TH is open. No snow on the road.
Brewer Creek is almost open. Heard that stubborn drift just before the last switchback is still there. Didn't drive over there, but hiking up should be a breeze.
The snowline is about 9000' on the north side, but looked to be maybe around treeline on the east side (8000').

Yes but I want to climb two glaciers at once, one on the way up and one on the way down and try to position my base camp accordingly.

Coquette Falls TH has the most route options.
Head up to the Bolum.
Veer left and cross over the top of the Step.
Descend the Hotlum. You then have two choices - descend the way you came or head
down the traditional Hotlum/Bolum route which is the same route that North Gate TH advertises.

clmbr wrote:

Alpinist wrote:

clmbr wrote:I’m hoping to do Whitney/Bolum or Hotlum/Bolum Glaciers (not ridges) over the Memorial Day weekend. Any feedback about THs access? I know it’s still two weeks ahead but it should only get better. Thanks

The Bolam Glacier was in great shape on May 5th. It was cold up there. Everything is still pretty frozen. No crevasses open yet.

Thanks. Any pics?

In that case perhaps Hotlum and Whitney.

How is the NG TH access?

We went in via the Coquette Trailhead. Saw Jibmaster there actually. (Thanks for the beer!) Here are some pics.
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B4LGrPfkWCFGUkVkeWs4LWVQLVk&usp=sharing

Thanks a lot for the feedback.

If Bolam has no open crevasses (and the hidden are well covered) I would prefer to do Hotlum and Whitney then. These two glaciers always guarantee some kind of excitement. I know it’s still early in the season but this year I want to spend a lot of time on Shasta. I also plan to climb a few WA Cascades again (I miss them very much).

So my current strategy (not the final yet) would be to ascend Hotlum and climb the Head Wall’s nearby east snowy/icy slope (I’ve done the west slope) and descend Whitney Glacier. Depend how we (not a solo approach this time) do with time I would like to go through Whitney Icefalls.

So I still think the North Gate base camp (or somewhere toward Whitney G) may be the most optimal place (unless, I would reverse the route), especially if we lose daylight on the end of the climb. Crossing Bolam G should not be complicated.

You shouldn't have any trouble crossing the Bolum Glacier. The round trip distance is the greater challenge I should think. That's a long circular route!

Alpinist wrote:You shouldn't have any trouble crossing the Bolum Glacier. The round trip distance is the greater challenge I should think. That's a long circular route!

I’m aware of that and always have a contingency plan. However, Whitney G is a commitment.

Another big wind weekend! Sheesh

If anyone has any recent pics or beta on northside routes, I would much appreciate it. Probably headed down there mid-week next week, not committed to a particular route just yet.

Also, are the Trinity Alps pretty much snow free at this time? Wouldn't mind some backcountry trout fishing as well.