SummitPost.org

Posted: **Wed Jul 24, 2013 2:27 am**

Hello, im curious if Mt. Ritter is currently accessible from Ediza Lake without ice axe/crampons?

*i'm comfortable on class 3

Thanks!

Posted: **Wed Jul 24, 2013 6:46 pm**

I found this very informative webpage about the Mount Ritter ascent from Ediza Lake: The Final Conquest of Mt. Ritter.
I haven't climbed the peak, but, I was hiking up in that area just a few days ago,...and, weather conditions are excellent. There is not much snow at this time of the season,...but, of course, the permanent snow fields and small glaciers still exist.
From what I understand, almost everyone takes along an ice axe. I certainly would,...but, then I'm not fearless.

Posted: **Wed Jul 24, 2013 7:02 pm**

I haven't been there this year, but when I climbed it years ago we were able to skirt around the snow and climb the loose chute on the right, below what is apparently the standard route. That was in September, but from what I have seen elsewhere this year if I were to try it now I wouldn't bring the gear along.

Posted: **Thu Jul 25, 2013 12:18 am**

The snow field which makes the mountain look so beautiful from Lake Ediza is present even in August, and it can be icy. If you are packing in with the intention of climbing Mt Ritter you should definitely take crampons and ice axe. There is a good chance you will need these.

Posted: **Fri Jul 26, 2013 6:55 am**

Has anyone been up there recently? Will be up in Mammoth area Aug. 7th-18th and was wondering if it is possible to bypass the SE glacier since it is such a low snow year.

*If you have any pics Chad of that chute that would be awesome

Posted: **Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:47 pm**

Alpenglow,

Not sure if this helps, old, but found this so here goes:
http://www.tahoebackcountry.net/feature ... _route.htm

I'll probably be doing the same route on Aug 27 or 28th. If you can take a picture and post it on this thread, that'd be cool..

Good luck on your climb!
JM

Posted: **Fri Jul 26, 2013 5:50 pm**

Alpenglow wrote:Has anyone been up there recently? Will be up in Mammoth area Aug. 7th-18th and was wondering if it is possible to bypass the SE glacier since it is such a low snow year.

*If you have any pics Chad of that chute that would be awesome

Don't have any pics handy, but it has been while since I have been there anyway.

But in low snow years like now, or late in the season when I went, the green route in the link Jesus Malverde provided is the route I was talking about ascending such that you can avoid any steep snow and skip the ax and crampons. We were able to skirt around to it without any gear. When we descended we came down the red route as the snow was soft by then.

Posted: **Fri Jul 26, 2013 10:26 pm**

3Deserts wrote:This probably isn't what anyone in this thread wants to hear, but let me toss out something to consider.

Part of what makes this mountain so special IS the snow and glaciers, especially if you do it as a loop and ascend the north face and descend the SE glacier. It's not every mountain in the Sierra that you can climb with semi-reliable snow all year, and I personally see it as a feature, not something to be avoided. It's a lot of what makes this such an aesthetic climb.

I get it if climbers don't have snow skills or gear or just hate snow for some reason, but then, there are probably better peaks to climb. The rock on the SE side is generally crappy, and if you descend any of the alternate, lesser known chutes, god help you, it's awful; like scrambling down a pile of broken dinner plates. The north face chutes are surprisingly nice, just pull down not out.

If you're collecting summits and views, cool, but if you're interested in maximizing the aesthetic nature of this climb, save it for when there's good snow and do that.

I totally feel you 3Deserts. It's just my Dad and I aren't to comfortable with snow travel and we have always been interested in Ritter since we've been going to up to the Mammoth/Yosemite area for 15 years. So if there is an option certain years to avoid some or most of the snow then we would prefer that but I understand where you're coming from.

Posted: **Sat Jul 27, 2013 8:15 pm**

Did this last year in September. Late and a low snow year. No need for crampons or ice ax. Very little glacier crossing and at low angle. I linked some photos so if the snow looks the same you should be good to go!

https://plus.google.com/photos/10872279 ... 8211994193

Mike

Posted: **Tue Jul 30, 2013 7:23 am**

Was up there in early June - http://www.flickr.com/photos/apanagar/s ... 073585918/

Def needed axe/crampons in early June. Better to carry them just in case. Always better to have your tools and not need them.

Posted: **Tue Jul 30, 2013 10:55 am**

This is what it currently looks like:

Didn't get any better pics cus I was heading to Clyde Minaret.

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