SummitPost.org

Hi all, has anyone been up there recently? What do conditions look like? Hoping to score some ice there in a couple of weeks.

Never even approached Split. Some report that the East (central) couloir melts out pretty fast and that the water ice rarely forms. Then again it's been pretty cool lately and we scored great ice in the Clyde Couloir on Jun2, 2012 after a dry season and a small cold spell: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mQTNjjj3IyU

Any intel appreciated.

No first hand info, but gauging from a Split climb in April last year and an April trip to the Palisades this year, I highly doubt the lower ice pitches are in. Perhaps sun baked rotten streamers for the first pitch and a mostly dry mixed second pitch peppered by rock buzzers.

Thanks, Monster5. What's it looking like in the Palisades?

It turns out that my partner for this climb is injured. If anyone is interested in doing it over Memorial Day weekend, email me. I could also take May22-23 off: george.peridas[at]gmail.com

Bump for a partner.

Seems pretty cold up there... http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.ph ... 3ZBEvldU34

Would love some split beta and palisades beta? Is it worth it to bring skis up there? Is there snow at or above Red Lake???

I'm game to get out there this weekend. I was planning on splitting The U notch and V notch as well. gnarnpow@gmail.com

ska21 wrote:Would love some split beta and palisades beta? Is it worth it to bring skis up there? Is there snow at or above Red Lake???

I posted a pic of the palisade glacier taken yesterday morning after the storm in the U/V Notch thread. Pretty much a foot of unconsolidated pow above 12,000'. I guess it would take at least a few days to firm up. The U-notch was unclimbable for us, but should be fine again soon.