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Mt Mills' East Couloir Conditions

PostPosted: Tue May 20, 2014 3:47 am
by Deb
Wow! Now I am asking for conditions beta. Mills' east couloir this wkend - anyone been up it lately or got eyes on how the couloir is shaped up? Chockstone coverage?

Re: Mt Mills' East Couloir Conditions

PostPosted: Wed May 21, 2014 12:50 am
by mrchad9
I don't know about now... but I went a couple years ago when snowline was similar to current conditions. May notes from the trip...

When I got to the chockstone it had 3-4 feet of snow overhanging the top, and a large moat from there to the lower portion when I stood. Not passable.

Headed over to the second couloir 100 feet to the south, followed steep snow nearly to the headwall, then managed to cut over on rock to the normal chute a good ways above the chockstone. Had my lightweight crampons, would have been much better with a larger pair, also next time I won't forget my gloves.

So just saying that if you get there and the chockstone doesn't look good that there are other options to ascend.

Re: Mt Mills' East Couloir Conditions

PostPosted: Sun May 25, 2014 6:45 am
by Deb
Chockstone is completely covered but snow conditions are kinda treacherous. We made the notch and skipped the summit due to the amount of snow. Sketchy day!
Image
Uninspiring snow conditions.