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N Palisade U-notch conditions

PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 3:59 am
by javang
Hi fellow climbers

Does anyone have some fresh info about the conditions of the U-Notch route of North Palisade?

Any info is appreciated!
Cheers

Re: N Palisade U-notch conditions

PostPosted: Sat May 09, 2015 12:48 pm
by mfang
Mid-April: continuous snow above 10500', postholing up to shins/knees above 12000'. Lower half of couloir is mostly bare blue ice except thin margin of unconsolidated but climbable snow on climber's R. Upper half is unconsolidated snow. Chimney and Clyde variation both looked mostly dry but I didn't feel safe to solo with wind, wet gloves and shoes.

Re: N Palisade U-notch conditions

PostPosted: Mon Jun 01, 2015 7:10 am
by fruitflyman
Folks, any updates on this area? Especially the U and V notches and the Swiss Arete. Thank you!

Re: N Palisade U-notch conditions

PostPosted: Wed Jun 03, 2015 2:33 am
by Scott M.
Probably lacking in the detail you had hoped for but since no first hand visitors had replied here is something. Was running my loop around Black Lake, Fourth Lake, Third Lake last Saturday (5/30) and there are some good vantage points from up around Black Lake (appx. 3 miles from N. Palisade).Looks like steady snow to the rope up point of the Swiss Arete above Gayley Camp. U notch had continuous snow down to the glacier with no ice showing as best one can tell from almost three miles away. One might assume ice just under the surface of new snow. My run didn't venture higher than 10,800'. Stepped in snow for four steps total and could have avoided that if I cared to. It was 70 degrees at the trailhead when I finished so things are changing quickly.

Re: N Palisade U-notch conditions

PostPosted: Sat Jun 06, 2015 10:35 pm
by fruitflyman
Gayley Camp got a few inches of fresh snow Wednesday - Thursday. Solid snow from there to the base of the ridge, postholing conditions. U-Notch is mainly snow with a little ice, V-Notch has some ice but plenty of snow too. Clyde couloir has much exposed rock, Underhill Couloirs all snow. Bergshrund easily crossed below all couloirs. Plenty of snow on all rock routes including Swiss Arete. Minor avalanches in the couloirs and on the slopes below as of Friday morning. Bottom line - conditions quite wintry.