Dingus Milktoast wrote:There are no places in your target area to fulfill your wish list, that I am aware of. The Appalachian Mountains just don't have much of the climbing you seem to be looking for. And the whole 'rafting back to starting point'... doesn't seem consistent with the goal of mountaineering.
I'll echo that. West Virginny AIN'T California.
Fayetteville is the heart of climbing/whitewater in WV.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source=s_q&hl=en&geocode=&q=fayetteville,+wv&sll=37.0625,-95.677068&sspn=31.371289,56.337891&ie=UTF8&hq=&hnear=Fayetteville,+Fayette,+West+Virginia&ll=38.052888,-81.103991&spn=0.243312,0.44014&z=11
New River gorge has some good class 5 climbing. Fall is the best time of the year. It's too cold in the winter, it rains during the spring, summer is pretty humid and things get greasy... Most climbers congregate in a small area under the New River Gorge Bridge, but there are miles of cliff where you won't see another climber all day.
If you don't mind driving, you can get to Seneca Rocks from Fayetteville in about 3.5 hours by driving through some of the most beautiful parts of the WV highlands.
If you really want class 3/4 climbing, pick just about any mountain in WV. You'll find steep class 3/4 bushwhacking anywhere you go.
The New River has water all year. During the spring it rains a lot, the river often floods, and all rafting can be closed now and then. There really isn't any climbing
per se on the water, but you can easily hike from the river up to the cliffs above (<2,000 feet). The New River is big and deep with great class 4 rapids. During the spring floods the New can be one long class 5 rapid.
Another reason to go in the fall is that you get whitewater releases on the Gauley River. Again, the Gauley has natural flow all year but the real action is in the spring with runoff and in the fall with dam releases. The releases are scheduled every Fri-Mon from the week after labor day until Bridge Day in early October. The Gauley River Festival (3rd weekend in September) in nearby Summersville is a hoot if you've never gotten drunk and puked with 5,000 other boaters. I've been going to Gauley Fest for 13 years now.
The upper Gauley is definite class 5 with consequence, and every year a few boaters die here (mostly rafters who get tossed from the boat and flushed through the rapids). Hike down to PILLOW ROCK and watch the carnage if you don't feel like running the Upper.
The middle Gauley is infrequently done and is class 3. The lower Gauley is in-between, with some great class 4 rapids such as PURE SCREAMING HELL.
http://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/River/detail/id/2378/
http://www.americanwhitewater.org/content/River/detail/id/2418/
Here we are at one of the slack pools on the Lower Gauley in glass kayaks (squirt boats) on a cold spring day. That's Trash Compactor Rapid in the distance. When this photo was taken, the water was 38 degrees F.