Hotoven wrote:bird wrote:I'd be wary of the "training" from RMI on Rainier. From what I've seen they are more of a "just get you to the top" kinda firm as opposed to more skills based like Am Alp Inst. I've had good experiences with the latter.
I can confirm that statement. I was on the same route on Rainier as this RMI group, and from what I saw, the people apart of the course hardly knew how to walk in crampons, and the guides were fine with that. It was painful to see such inexperienced "hikers" heading up this mountain they did not belong on.
When they got down to camp the one day, I overheard the group of people who were being guided talking about plans for Denali. Lets hope no one gets hurt
To be fair I think we need to distinguish between guided climbs, where goal of the clients is to get to the top (and maybe learn something in the process), and formal mountaineering courses, where the goal of the clients is to learn something (and maybe do a climb in the process). I'm guessing you probably saw the former when you were on Rainier. I've never done a formal course with RMI but have climbed with people who have, and they had nothing but good things to say about their classes.
One thing I have noted - though I admit it's based on very little data - is that there seems to be some difference in the extent to which formal mountaineering classes are designed to create self-sufficient climbers who can start climbing with others who aren't guides, vs. climbers who have skills needed to go on progressively more advanced guided climbs. My perception is that AAI is a little more focussed than some others on the former. On the other hand, what a lot of clients appear to want is the latter (e.g., getting enough skills to be on a guided rope team because they want to climb Rainier or Denali or Everest or whatever with a guide company), and catering to that market is profitable for guide companies, so you can't really blame a guide company for focussing on that market.