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Trap Dike

PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2011 8:46 pm
by chocodove
Anyone been up Trap Dike recently? I am going to attempt it in about a week or so (as long as it remains dry) and the only thing that worries me is the exit point onto the slide. I hear conflicting reports as to whether there is a cairn or not??

Re: Trap Dike

PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 4:07 am
by Autoxfil
The rocks is pretty grippy even when wet. You can also pull on trees around the cruxes if it's too wet. So, don't bail because of a little water, I bet you can find a way up that you're comfortable with.

After the final and hardest (dry) waterfall crux, there's a series of possible exits, which get easier and easier until you go too far and the dike gets much brushier. Just take the first one that looks easy enough for you to be comfortable on. The first few are probably 5th class moves, then there are a couple 3rd class slabby exits.

After the final, easiest, "proper" exit, the dike gets brushy and the next obvious way out is a dead-end slide with lots of bushwhacking to the summit.

The Dike is amazing; possibly the best scramble in the east. Enjoy!

Re: Trap Dike

PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 2:31 am
by triyoda
I climbed it today. Very dry, no issues at all with traction. You will see how low Marcy pond is, so they must not be getting a ton of rain.

As you get higher in the Dyke, it will be slabby (but the wall on the right will gradually become more of a "shoulder" that looks like it would be relatively easy to climb out of) on the right, but mostly green on the left. When you see a rocky exposed patch on the left (in a sea of green) you are nearing a good exit point on the right. You probably want to be about 50 meters below this rocky wall on the left when you start to traverse right. You will have to bushwhack about 20 - 30 feet to the shoulder of the main slab that is the face of Colden. I walked along the shoulder (minor bushwhack), for about 40 feet and then found a suitable way up onto the main slab. The slab is steep as you ascend to the summit (40 - 45 degrees), but is very grippy. I am surprised the face is not graded as low fifth class friction (5.1, 5.2). The Dyke itself is mostly 3rd class, however there are at least 3 or 4 spots of what I would consider 4th class, including the crux, which is several moves.

Re: Trap Dike

PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 9:57 pm
by chocodove
Thanks for the info. We'll be there on Thursday and weather looks good so far, so up we go.