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Hi all,

I had a two-tool question. I've gotten great advice on here before- thank you!- so I thought I'd bring around something I've been trying to sort and see if anyone is interested. I got my toes wet this past winter/spring with some Sierra alpine and am ready to jump in more fully this coming year. I've been using a borrowed SMC Himalayan axe- maybe a 65- which has been great. Heavy, too long most of the time, but a sturdy axe far as I can tell/use. I'm 5'7".

I want to move into steeper terrain- various Sierra couloirs, mixed climbs- and am trying to figure out the best way to proceed with tools/axes. I doubt I'll do waterfalls specifically, I'm more looking for some tools I can grow with and climb Sierra 14ers/ the most varied terrain with.

It seems like most folks have liked tools like the Venoms or Air Tech Evos in the situations I'm describing. I'm wondering: with the new Quarks coming out and being as light as they are, plus having options to strip them down, would I still be better off getting a pair of 50cm Venoms or similar rather than a one axe/ one Quark option? How important do you find it to have a pair of axes/tools vs combining (one quark/ one evo or venom vs two venoms/ two quarks)? Or should I grab a pair of Quarks and switch between them and the SMC depending on need? The SMC is great, but I bet if I had a shorter, usable axe/tool, I'd rarely still use it. Also, at 5'7", is relying on a 50/53cm axe for general use too short? I know this has been done to death elsewhere, but most of the discussions are with people several inches taller than I- wondered if my shorter height makes a difference- and it seems like I use poles for most things less than 35-40 degrees.

In summary: pair of quarks or quark as a second overkill? Venoms all I need? 50cm good choice? One Evo/ one quark perfect?

I know no one can tell me what to do here, but because of limited funds I'd like to get something versatile but also that I can use to push my skills.
Any suggestions or thoughts, including if I'm overthinking this, much appreciated!
Thanks for the time!
Aran

For what you are describing it seems like any old straight shaft 50cm tools will work. If you want to spent $ on something pretty and light quarks will work great. They all will work fine on anything steep like Wi3. Unless you want to climb steep ice couloirs one ice axe is ok too.

Just about anything will work. But, if you have a little money to spend, you can certainly get a setup that really impresses with versatility.

One Quark and one Sum'Tec (or Venom, or Evo, but I like the Petzl more) would be perfect. The Sum'Tec (or whatever) works just fine as an everyday axe, and paired with the Quark will really provide a lot of confidence as you venture onto steeper terrain. It also gives you an easy option of a second Quark if you start waterfall climbing or something.

A great alternative to the Quark is the Matrix Light. It's awesome on steep snow and easy ice, but can't climb vertical ice like a Quark. It is also way cheaper. If you're sure you're more interested in big, moderate lines than waterfall ice, it's a great tool to pair with a technical axe like the Sum'Tec/Venom/Evo.

http://mountaineer.com/store/merchant.m ... ry_Code=41

Thanks you two for taking the time to respond. With some more skillful searching, I've found a fair amount of commentary on this issue over the last couple years- so I apologize if I was posting something that's been overly discussed. I thought the newest Quark might change the game a bit, but...

The Quark can't really be re-configured mid-climb. It let's you own one set of tool for ice cragging days and alpine days, but for your needs any tool without a ton of curve in the lower handle will work fine.