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Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:43 pm
by brichardsson
I am curious as to how difficult/safe it is to use crampons without training. I am enrolled in a winter mountaineering course later this winter that teaches ice ax technique, crampons, rope teams on ice, etc. But I wanted to go out and get some light trail work just to stay in climbing shape. (I do work out regularly at the gym as well, of course)

If I am on a short, mostly unexposed, relatively flat trail, is crampon usage pretty straightforward? Or am I better off waiting until my class? Just for reference, I am comfortable doing 12-14 mile hikes with 4000' gain, and this particular route is only 6 miles with 1500' gain.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 5:53 pm
by mountainsandsound
It's like walking basically. If you are just walking around on flat terrain, don't worry too much about it, just be aware and space your legs a little further apart than normal. Wearing gaiters is a good idea too, to protect your pants.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 7:50 pm
by brichardsson
mountainsandsound wrote:It's like walking basically. If you are just walking around on flat terrain, don't worry too much about it, just be aware and space your legs a little further apart than normal. Wearing gaiters is a good idea too, to protect your pants.


Thanks. I assumed as much, but I am acutely aware that I don't know everything there is to know, and decided it was best to ask. Thanks again.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:20 pm
by ExcitableBoy
I would read 'Freedom of The Hills' for a primer, then go and practice in low stakes situations (ski areas are good before the lifts open) or other snow slopes with safe runouts. It is not rocket surgery, but there are some points (ha ha) to keep in mind.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 8:48 pm
by DanTheMan
The dangers on flat ground with crampons are mostly

A)stepping on your own toes/legs

B)forgetting that your feet are now locked to the ground. If you try to pivot your foot like you normally can, it won't budge and you can really wrench your knee out.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:43 pm
by splattski
C) Catching your crampon on your pant leg (or too-baggy gaiter) and falling flat on your face.

Been there, done that.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:52 pm
by Jow
When you sit down for break or snack don't forget your wearing them and cross your legs quickly, happened to me and ripped open my pants.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2012 11:00 pm
by Trevers89
Make sure your crampons are compatible with your boots

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 12:02 am
by JHH60
In addition to making sure they are compatible (good advice!), make sure you have fitted them properly. They should fit snugly on the boots so that they don't fall off easily even if you haven't tightened the straps (for strap ons) or engaged the lever lock (for hybrid or step ins). The first few times I used crampons I adjusted them fairly loosely, assuming the lever lock would hold them in place. I was just lucky I didn't trying anything too complicated in them, since when I took an ice climbing class a few months later the instructor noticed my crampons were too loose and showed me that they could pop off the way I had them adjusted.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 1:30 am
by Bill Reed
In addition to the great comments all ready provided, I would add:

Walk very deliberately, no sauntering or sashaying allowed.

If you come to a patch of bare ground or rock, keep em' on and walk over it carefully.

Don't step on yours or anybody else's rope.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 3:59 am
by brichardsson
ExcitableBoy wrote:I would read 'Freedom of The Hills' for a primer, then go and practice in low stakes situations (ski areas are good before the lifts open) or other snow slopes with safe runouts. It is not rocket surgery, but there are some points (ha ha) to keep in mind.


Thanks, already on it. I read (I believe it was yours) a mountaineering 101 primer here, and picked up the book after reading it. It's been a great resource.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:02 am
by brichardsson
Trevers89 wrote:Make sure your crampons are compatible with your boots


JHH60 wrote:In addition to making sure they are compatible (good advice!), make sure you have fitted them properly. They should fit snugly on the boots so that they don't fall off easily even if you haven't tightened the straps (for strap ons) or engaged the lever lock (for hybrid or step ins). The first few times I used crampons I adjusted them fairly loosely, assuming the lever lock would hold them in place. I was just lucky I didn't trying anything too complicated in them, since when I took an ice climbing class a few months later the instructor noticed my crampons were too loose and showed me that they could pop off the way I had them adjusted.


Thanks for both of these points. I have a resource at my local REI that has helped me greatly with gear fit / compatibility issues, and have already talked to him.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 4:12 am
by Baarb
Check if your crampons are designed for a particular foot, i.e. left / right and make sure they're on the correct ones. This can be do with proper fit as mentioned above but also to do with having strap buckles on the outside of the boot so you don't accidentally catch it with the other foot and cause the straps to loosen.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 5:31 pm
by Ben Beckerich
My buddy was tired and caught his 'pon on his pants during a hasty retreat off a stormy mountain... he'd been about 200' behind/above me, then I came around a rock pile and suddenly he was in front of me, lying face first, head down-slope in the snow.

So the point is- if you're having trouble keeping up on descent, get sloppy with your footwork.

Crampons really aren't hard to use- like somebody said, it's just like walking in bare boots, but with your feet slightly farther apart. Read up on the "French," "German," and "American" techniques... they'll seem sort of silly and redundant as you read about them, but then on the slope, it comes back to you, and you're reminded to use good footwork.

Re: Crampon usage for beginner

PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2012 6:37 pm
by JHH60
ExcitableBoy wrote:I would read 'Freedom of The Hills' for a primer, then go and practice in low stakes situations (ski areas are good before the lifts open) or other snow slopes with safe runouts. It is not rocket surgery, but there are some points (ha ha) to keep in mind.


Excellent advice. If you don't have an ice axe you should get one and practice self arrest while you are at it. One specific crampon safety issue (mentioned in FotH) is that, when you practice self arrest (or do it for real) with crampons on, you need to lift your feet so your crampons aren't digging into the snow while you are sliding. Once you've stopped you can dig them in, but if you're still sliding and the crampons catch something you can be flipped over, wrench your foot or leg, or otherwise hurt yourself.