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Good Upgrade From La Sportiva Glacier EVO?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 11:17 am
by Cosmo1111
Mine have been used to death and need to upgrade. I climb mostly in New Zealand and do a considerable amount of walk-ins. The Glacier EVO was a fantastic boot for hiking in and climbing in.

I believe the La Sportiva Makalu is a decent boot, a little stronger in the mountaineering side of what I need but believe they might be too stiff for the hike in.

Any recommendations? I prefer to buy second hand and its easier buying second hand when the boot is more common/ popular.

Re: Good Upgrade From La Sportiva Glacier EVO?

PostPosted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 11:28 pm
by JHH60
If you like Sportiva, have you looked at LS Trango S Evo? They are lighter than Glaciers, hike well, and climb rock really well for boots. They are stiff enough to use with crampons and have heel welts for hybrid crampons fittings. My only gripe with mine is that they aren't as durable as leather, but I suppose that's the price you pay for low weight. If you want a warmer boot more suited for technical ice, and can afford the price, the Nepal Evos are arguably the gold standard for leather mountain boots. Both are pretty common/popular. Be aware that the Trango and Nepal have different lasts from each other or from the Glacier and Makalu, which share have the same last (the last is the foot model around which the boot is designed). Which is to say they all fit differently. I get personally get a good fit in Trangos and Nepals but Makalus and Glaciers don't fit me as well. YMMV.

Re: Good Upgrade From La Sportiva Glacier EVO?

PostPosted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 4:53 am
by Snidely Whiplash
I do a lot of three-season mountaineering/scrambling in Scarpa Triolet GTX boots. I used to use the Glaciers a while back, and was rolling my ankles quite a bit with them. The Scarpas are a bit heavier duty than the Glaciers, but in the same class, and have more ankle support, so I've had fewer problems with ankle rolling. But they will be more flexible and lighter than the Makalus.

Re: Good Upgrade From La Sportiva Glacier EVO?

PostPosted: Sat Mar 23, 2013 4:22 am
by WyomingSummits
I really like the Salewa Raven Combi. Prob a bit more stiff than the Sportivas, but very lightweight and solid construction. They're made for summer alpine with the need to cover both rock and snow, so they're stiff but also made with a sticky rubber for better traction on scrambles.