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For alpine climbing I prefer a beefy (8.5mm - 9mm) 50 meter half rope. For easier routes (e.g. up to easy 5th class, moderate ice) I take only one. For harder routes (e.g. mid 5th class and up, WI 3/AI 3 and up), routes requiring multiple rappels, or climbing in a three person team I take two half ropes. For harder pure alpine rock routes requiring few or no rappels with a single partner I prefer a mid-light (9.6mm-10mm) 60 meter rope.

It is a tough question. You should specify how long are your rappells will be, if you are planning to lead 5th class on it, how long are sections of rope climbing (pitches) are etc.

I would use the thinnest 50-60 M Half/Double rope. You can double it up and use it for leading short sections of terrain you do not want to solo. And you can simul climb on it when it is doubled. You can also use it for glaciers if it is double dry. And do 25-30 M raps.

Sort of a strange question here... but is there really any difference between a half and a twin rope? I understand the differences in how they are used when climbing, but is a 8 mm half rope the same device as a 8 mm twin rope? If not, what is the difference in the rope itself?

It is my understanding half ropes can be used as twins. Is it not the case twins can be used as half ropes? Why not?

mrchad9 wrote:Sort of a strange question here... but is there really any difference between a half and a twin rope? I understand the differences in how they are used when climbing, but is a 8 mm half rope the same device as a 8 mm twin rope? If not, what is the difference in the rope itself?

It is my understanding half ropes can be used as twins. Is it not the case twins can be used as half ropes? Why not?

My understanding is that half ropes are rated to take a fall on either rope, and are used alternately up a route.
Twins have to be used together in *each* protection device, not separated as half ropes are/can be..

different strength ratings

with twins, you clip both strands
with doubles, you can clip one strand at a time

Yes... I follow both those responses... but is there actually any difference between a 8 mm half rope and a 8 mm twin rope.

Like if I hold it in my hand, or take them apart, is anything different? What?

no
not with mine, anyway

So it is just a scam to get climbers to buy all kinds of different sets of ropes then... instead of multiple uses for the same rope or pair or ropes.

pretty much

I have a question...what is the proper way to double up a half rope for climbing? I hear this being said all the time but can't think of the correct way to tie into a folded over rope.

Matt Lemke wrote:I have a question...what is the proper way to double up a half rope for climbing? I hear this being said all the time but can't think of the correct way to tie into a folded over rope.

Wouldn't you use a figure eight or butterfly knot same as with glacier travel?

Matt are you asking how to tie in w doubles?
If so, it is same as w a single rope but two times since you have two strands...

In addition to how they are used, half and twin ropes differ in the way they are tested and rated. Half ropes are tested by dropping a weight on a single strand while twin ropes are tested by dropping a weight on both strands. There are ropes that are rated as both twin and half ropes.

Using the thinnest half rope available is attractive for weight savings, however, ascending/crevasse rescue/hauling etc. is easier with a thicker cord, not to mention improved durability and cut resistance which is nice when using a half rope as a single.

Matt Lemke wrote:I have a question...what is the proper way to double up a half rope for climbing? I hear this being said all the time but can't think of the correct way to tie into a folded over rope.

Rewoven figure eight on a bight.