SummitPost.org

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jkraPv-I_Bk[/youtube]

Interesting.......I wonder how hard it is to activate in icy conditions? Haston has aged considerably in the last 10 years!

This is not the first double gate carabiner I've seen. I'm not sure this is any better than using a locking carabiner on important placements.

'm not sure this is any better than using a locking carabiner

Theoretically it should be safer since it can't become unlocked or forgotten to be locked, not that any of us would do that.

It seems like it would be nice on sandy routes too since sand wouldn't clog the locker. Last weekend in Moab, the rock was really sandy (and wet in places) and it was a real pain to get the biner unlocked. I don't know yet if the above biner type is good for climbing or rappelling though.

Rock Exotica double gate carabiner: http://www.rockexotica.com/products/car ... _wire.html

Scott wrote:

'm not sure this is any better than using a locking carabiner

Theoretically it should be safer since it can't become unlocked or forgotten to be locked, not that any of us would do that.

It seems like it would be nice on sandy routes too since sand wouldn't clog the locker. Last weekend in Moab, the rock was really sandy (and wet in places) and it was a real pain to get the biner unlocked. I don't know yet if the above biner type is good for climbing or rappelling though.

Why on earth do you think it would not be good for climbing or rapping?

It may be harder to get on and off a rope as I could not precisely make out his finger placements on the biner and how easy it is to open allowing the rope in. Its gate strength will be just as great as any other carabiner and dare I say better than some. Dynamically while one gate may open the same effects will keep the second gate firmly closed.

Other than weight and cost, seems a no brainer to me. That second gate will definitely weigh more than a single gated biner, but I betcha it weighs less than a typical screw gate biner. Probably cheaper to manufacture as well. Win Win Win if you asked me.

We already do not climb with lockers except generally at belay points, and not even then all the time, so I see no reason to use these double gated biners throughout. It is not like people are dying because biners gates are opening, so this is a convenience factor here. We all learned to place our gear and biners facing the right direction. Even if you screw up once, the likelyhood of placing 2 biners the wrong orientation twice in a row is VERY low. Use, in liu of screw gate biners? Oh yea.

Gonna go get my hands on one of these buggers asap. See if it can't replace my tie in biner. If it can replace that large biner and its screw that alwasy gets caught in T-shirts etc when screwing it closed and being a PITA, that will be a boon to everyone. Now to buy and get some testing done with my own hands.

Wastral,

I didn't say it wouldn't be good for descending, only that I didn't know how it would be yet (freezing, wearing, etc.) . I'm eager to try one, especially on a sandy route.

The most common way I use at every belay is the clove hitch with one hand. I couldn't tell from the video, how do you clove hitch onto the biner with one hand?

I wonder if Black Diamond's new twin-gate locking carabiner is the answer?

^^^^ That looks photoshopped! You wouldn't be pulling out legs, would you?

Clove hitch one hand: Hmm. I see what you are getting at.

From the Video it looks like there is a tab on both gates that one must use to pull the first gate open. So using a Clove hitch one would have to keep a finger free. I tried doing clove hitch one handed and keeping a major finger free and it seems fairly hard as I am so used to doing it, well, the way I have always done it. Can a pinky open the gate on this double gate biner?

Ok, got a question:

Am I not seeing all of the posts because I am new?

I do not see Wastral's post that Scott is replying to.

Buz Groshong wrote:^^^^ That looks photoshopped! You wouldn't be pulling out legs, would you?

I have never used photoshop.

Am I not seeing all of the posts because I am new?

You're on permanent moderation and all your post will have to be approved. Unless you want to look like a fool and play dumb or ask why, it's best to live with it. It's not so bad and you can still post.

That's all that needs to be said on the subject.

Grivl_R&D wrote:I'll send a sample to your lab for testing. Check your PM. I'm confident out product will prove superior to BD's twin screw-lock.

Thanks, I appreciate that.

The fact is that people have been falling hard on regular gate carabiners for years with minimal instances of gates coming open due to irregular loading. Seems like alot of R&D and development costs for a product that simply won't gain much traction sales-wise. I'd spend money on sticky rubber gloves for crack climbing before I'd buy one of these.