SummitPost.org

I've only used double-back (non pre threaded buckles) on my harnesses, but it's getting harder to find a harness with good features that are not of the speed-buckle variety.
Just curious about thoughts or experiences on how cumbersome it is to put on a speed buckle harnesses with crampons and large boots, etc.
I like having the belt being able to completely separate while stepping into a harness, but maybe it's actually just as easy.

Also, what's the deal with the low-hanging haul loops? BD used to make harnesses with good compact haul loops, but now all their models have them hanging 1-1.5 inches below the belt. Is there any inherent advantage to this?

I absolutely love the ease of putting on a 'speed-buckle' harness especially in colder temps. For me, no problem whatsoever with boots. I generally put my crampons on after harness but cant imagine it would make any difference to the ease of putting on the harness.

Did you mean gear loops? I like them lower as less interference with my pack.

I've never fully trusted the speed buckles, and I knot the webbing behind the buckle, just in case. I recently bought a lightweight harness (BD Couloir) and now remember what a PITA threading those double back buckles could be. My old Chouinard Bod harness required a nut tool to separate the two buckles so the webbing could be threaded. But I felt very secure once it was doubled back.

radson wrote:Did you mean gear loops? I like them lower as less interference with my pack.

Nope, referring to the haul loop.

Also thanks for the other thoughts!

pjc30943 wrote:

radson wrote:Did you mean gear loops? I like them lower as less interference with my pack.

Nope, referring to the haul loop.

Also thanks for the other thoughts!

Belay loop?

The Black Diamond buckles are way more bothersome than any others because they have two piece buckles. Normal double back buckles (DMM Super Couloir, for example) are not difficult to thread back. The retarded Black Diamond design is unique in its user-unfriendliness. I can barely thread the BD buckles in warm weather with bare hands. In the cold, with gloves, they are a serious pain in the ass. (It's sad, because the BD Couloir is otherwise an outstanding alpine harness.)

ExcitableBoy wrote:I've never fully trusted the speed buckles, and I knot the webbing behind the buckle, just in case. I recently bought a lightweight harness (BD Couloir) and now remember what a PITA threading those double back buckles could be. My old Chouinard Bod harness required a nut tool to separate the two buckles so the webbing could be threaded. But I felt very secure once it was doubled back.

Did you mean gear loops?

Belay loop?

The "haul loop" is the one in back.

I was pleasantly surprised to find my minimalist BD Couloir has a full strength haul loop, something becoming rarer on harnesses.

Fwiw - I've swapped to the CAMP Blitz after a few seasons in the BD Couloir. The Camp Blitz is lighter, has useable gear loops, and a much more user friendly, standard double back buckle. To the OP's question, the harness design eliminates any potential issues with putting it on while wearing crampons on your feet.

It is not a harness designed for sitting/hanging/whipping. None in this category are though…

edit to add: in more direct answer to the OP. I also sometimes use speed buckle harnesses with crampons. It's generally easy enough to thread a cramponed boot through the waist and leg loop…only requiring a moderate amount of care and balance ... although if you were trying to harness up at a precarious stance, balancing on one foot and threading the other, you might have "issues". But then you probably should have just planned ahead a little better...

logsden wrote:Fwiw - I've swapped to the CAMP Blitz after a few seasons in the BD Couloir. The Camp Blitz is lighter, has useable gear loops, and a much more user friendly, standard double back buckle. ..

I wanted to buy a lightweight Camp harness, for all the reasons you mentioned, but I had an REI dividend to spend so I was stuck with their selection.

REI does a lot of things well, but harness and general climbing gear selection is not generally one of them. In the future, I THINK you can use your dividend for special orders when you can't find your selection in their stock.

So far I've only used the Blitz twice but it is an improvement over the BD. No haul loop is a small bummer though.

logsden wrote:REI does a lot of things well, but harness and general climbing gear selection is not generally one of them. In the future, I THINK you can use your dividend for special orders when you can't find your selection in their stock.

So far I've only used the Blitz twice but it is an improvement over the BD. No haul loop is a small bummer though.

Blitz is a great harness. However, if you have thick legs, it may not fit. I bought one, and had to give it to my son because my legs didn't fit into it with my winter clothing on. If you're big, you may want to consider trying one on before buying it.

I had replaced my mountaineering harness since this thread, but now it's time to replace my main alpine / rock harness as well.

Looking back at this thread, and at the available harnesses over the last year, I haven't seen yet a harness that includes a non-speed-buckle, ice clipper slots, easily droppable leg loops, and a haul loop. Anyone know of one that does?

The closest are BD Xenos and Arc'teryx I340a. The recent BD Momentum AL would be perfect, except I can't find it anywhere in my size (medium).

I still don't like how easy it is to accidentally disengage speed buckles. We're not removing harnesses 50x in the mountains, and so an extra 30 seconds isn't a factor. I'd rather the belt can open and be easier to step into, and the buckle have no chance of coming undone, no matter how much the release point is levered in a chimney/etc.

Check out Misty Mountain...

http://mistymountain.com/

I just got the CAMP Cintura Air CR a couple months ago and love it. Weighs in around 12oz and I love the speed buckle with gloves on. Packs down super small in the pack too, although not as small as the BD Alpine Bod or the Couloir. Waist belt is more comfy and the leg loops are a padded a bit as well. Has a webbing chalk bag loop on back and the gear loops are plastic covered and more rigid than the ones on many alpine harnesses. They even went as far as to put elastic on the leg loops to tuck the extra webbing from the adjustable buckle into. A lot of features for a harness that weighs that little. I'd always liked the couloir, but this is my harness of choice now...even though it is a bit more expensive. I had never had a speed buckle, but am sold on it now.