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I'm trying to decide on tents for a solo expedition to Cho Oyu. The two main ones I'm looking at the MH EV2 and the Marmot Hammer 2p. Since it's a solo climb, weight is obviously very important. The Hammer weighs a little over three pounds (just the tent and poles) and the EV2 is just shy of five pounds. I'm leaning towards the Hammer cause of the weight, but I need to know that it'll be adequate for this climb. I'd also be using this tent for Aconcagua.

Mountain Hardwear Direkt2

Hilleberg Nammatj 2?

Hilleberg Jannu. Freestanding, dome, pitches from the outside, a million guypoint, bomber. The extra pound over the EV2 is worth it. Its nice to be able to cook in a vestibule. The EV2 is a great tent but it doesn't have a real vestibule. In any case its important you pick a dome tent vs a tunnel that may collapse under heavy snow if you leave it for some time. If you're going solo on an 8000m peak I don't think you have a big margin of error. Good luck, have fun!

Rab Latok Ultra with the optional vestibule is what I would take. I also have a Hilleberg Jannu and its a nice tent but MUCH heavier and bulkier.

So what about a jannu for Camp 1 (which I could leave there for the whole expedition) and a Hammer/Direkt 2 for when I go to the higher camps?

bump

surgent not quite sure why the bump but my strategy for the 7000/8000m peaks I am planning next year is based on one tent only above BC. The two of us are gonna go with a MH EV3 for the high camps and have BC serviced by a expedition company.