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Regarding the use of doing a running belay with pickets on steep snow (think Old Chute or Pearly Gates on Hood) compared to having someone on top belaying the followers up, can anyone argue which would be better to use to bring up people who haven't climbed either of those routes before? Me and a partner are leading a Hood climb next month and are discussing the merits of each for making sure the newer folks don't slide into the fumarole or Bergschrund. I climbed both routes and didn't rope up at all previously, we won't bring pickets if we don't have to. Also, downclimb vs. rappel down the Chute?

Thanks, couldn't decide whether this was a gear related question or "general" post.

A seated, anchored belay from above is way stronger than a running belay, no question. Also, a fall of one person in a running belay will potentially cause the entire rope team to fall, and even if the pickets hold, there are a lot of chances for injury from sharp ice axes, crampons, broken ankles and such. I can't imagine ever needing to rappel the Old Chute. Also, I would question whether next month (March?) is a good time for beginning climbers on Hood.

Thanks Excitableboy. Yeah, we just won't bring the others if any conditions are less than perfect. It would be the last weekend of March. It's two of the planned group of six that are new(er). Last I was up there I saw a couple rappelling off a bollard from the top and I thought it was odd considering how short it was but they also got down it pretty fast.