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PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:05 pm
by JHH60
Came across this thread on a different forum and thought you (Misha) might find it pertinent. If you scroll down they compare Trango Extreme/Prime, Batura, Nepal, and Spantik.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... o_Boots_Pr

PS Note that the Scarpa Omegas bdynkin recommended now come with Intuition liners out of the box, and weigh less than the Spantik or Nepal and about the same as the Batura. I was practicing with my Omegas in the rock gym earlier today and had forgotten how light and relatively comfortable they are for plastic.

PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2009 10:17 pm
by Misha
JHH60 wrote:Came across this thread on a different forum and thought you (Misha) might find it pertinent. If you scroll down they compare Trango Extreme/Prime, Batura, Nepal, and Spantik.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... o_Boots_Pr

PS Note that the Scarpa Omegas bdynkin recommended now come with Intuition liners out of the box, and weigh less than the Spantik or Nepal and about the same as the Batura. I was practicing with my Omegas in the rock gym earlier today and had forgotten how light and relatively comfortable they are for plastic.


Thanks! This confirms (to me) that Spantik is the way to go. Now, I just need to find a pair on super sale; ideally where I can return them if they don't fit. If you come across one, please drop me a note!

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:02 am
by 96avs01
Here's one more piece of info...very nice review of Spantik vs. Baruntse on cc.com, in case you haven't come across it. Maybe the Baruntse is also a possibility?

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 6:54 am
by Misha
96avs01 wrote:Here's one more piece of info...very nice review of Spantik vs. Baruntse on cc.com, in case you haven't come across it. Maybe the Baruntse is also a possibility?


Baruntse's look sweet AND they are a lot cheaper than Spantik. Backcountry.com sells a pair for $510 right now. I have to try them. Thanks!

Re: Winter climbing boot recommendation

PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2009 2:53 pm
by phlipdascrip
Misha wrote:My trusted Boreals are finally in need of replacement. I am looking for a durable and warm boot to use in winter alpine conditions. Being able to climb mid-5th class rock as well as steep ice in them is paramount. Double boot is preferred since I plan to use them for multi-day trips in +15F to -20F conditions.

I have fairly narrow feet. Any recommendations?


If you liked your Asans you might want to check out the G1s: http://www.spgear.org/gear/4529/boreal-g1.html
I have a pair myself and though they're not very light I like them alot. Not too responsive on rock which I blame on them being a double boot and the pair I have being a bit too large for my feet though. What size do you need?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 7:59 pm
by CanadianSteve
JHH60 wrote:Came across this thread on a different forum and thought you (Misha) might find it pertinent. If you scroll down they compare Trango Extreme/Prime, Batura, Nepal, and Spantik.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthr ... o_Boots_Pr

PS Note that the Scarpa Omegas bdynkin recommended now come with Intuition liners out of the box, and weigh less than the Spantik or Nepal and about the same as the Batura. I was practicing with my Omegas in the rock gym earlier today and had forgotten how light and relatively comfortable they are for plastic.


How warm are the Omegas compared to the Invernos, for example... (only double boot I've tried)

PostPosted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 10:17 pm
by JHH60
CanadianSteve wrote:How warm are the Omegas compared to the Invernos, for example... (only double boot I've tried)


I haven't used Invernos but I've heard that Omegas are warmer than Invernos with the standard liner but may not be as warm as Invernos with the High Altitude Liner. I don't know how reliable that information is, however.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:10 pm
by bdynkin
JHH60 wrote:
CanadianSteve wrote:How warm are the Omegas compared to the Invernos, for example... (only double boot I've tried)


I haven't used Invernos but I've heard that Omegas are warmer than Invernos with the standard liner but may not be as warm as Invernos with the High Altitude Liner. I don't know how reliable that information is, however.

Omega's liners are a little thinner - that is what makes them light and precise but also not as warm as "normal" duble plastic boots like Invernos. I climbed/hiked in both Omegas and Invernos but it wasn't cold enough to tell the difference.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 5:41 pm
by JHH60
bdynkin wrote:Omega's liners are a little thinner - that is what makes them light and precise but also not as warm as "normal" duble plastic boots like Invernos. I climbed/hiked in both Omegas and Invernos but it wasn't cold enough to tell the difference.


Aren't the liner compositions pretty different between Omegas and Invernos? My Omegas are thermofit closed cell foam but the Inverno liners are some other foam/fabric combination (don't know for sure; my experience with them is based on the pair that Scarpa sent me by mistake when I ordered a new Omega liner, and also observing others who had Invernos). It seems like my Omega liners absorb less moisture than the Inverno liners do, which seems to act a bit like a vapor barrier, and allows them to stay pretty dry on multiday trips.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:30 pm
by bdynkin
JHH60 wrote:Aren't the liner compositions pretty different between Omegas and Invernos? My Omegas are thermofit closed cell foam but the Inverno liners are some other foam/fabric combination. It seems like my Omega liners absorb less moisture than the Inverno liners do, which seems to act a bit like a vapor barrier, and allows them to stay pretty dry on multiday trips.


Agreed: closed foam on Omegas versus foam/fabric combo on Invernos. Still, it seems that Omegas are a liitle less warm than Invernos with high altitude liners. Here is a link to a good winter boots discussion.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=1259

PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:00 am
by kovarpa
Sierra Trading Post now has a lot of nice/god boots for winter Sierra (i.e. mild weather) at good prices.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:44 am
by Misha
kovarpa wrote:Sierra Trading Post now has a lot of nice/god boots for winter Sierra (i.e. mild weather) at good prices.


I ended up following your advice and got myself a pair of La Sportiva Nepal EVO. They should arrive later this week. Will buy double boots later

Can't wait to put them to use!!

PostPosted: Fri Dec 11, 2009 1:10 am
by kovarpa
Misha wrote:
I ended up following your advice and got myself a pair of La Sportiva Nepal EVO. They should arrive later this week. Will buy double boots later

Can't wait to put them to use!!


A very good choice. You will be happy.