SummitPost.org

I dont see the weight-to-benefit ratio paying out enough to carry pitons on an alpine climb...1 rack of nuts, a few cams to cover a broad range, skip the doubles, call it good..

Autoxfil wrote:
Yeah, but hammers are heavy. If I'm climbing ice/mixed and I already have a hammer-headed tool, pitons make sense. But bringing pitons without a hammer doesn't make sense, and hammers are heavy to bring along just in case if there are other options (like nuts).

yes. alpine = have my ice tools. otherwise, use nuts for bailing.

OP asked what else he might consider. So he might consider pitons. He doesn't need to. Good comments in this thread.

alleyehave wrote:I dont see the weight-to-benefit ratio paying out enough to carry pitons on an alpine climb...

KBs, Bugaboos and Lost Arrows can fit into cracks where nothing else will work. Angle pitons will still work in icy cracks that nuts or cams will slip out of. I consider them an essential on all genuine alpine routes.

So in summary:

For sierra alpine rock climbs, you already have too much gear. Take your nuts, cams .75 - 2 and a couple big hexes. bring slings instead of draws. Dont forget your rope. Leave the rest at home. Climb routes well within your ability.

The above rack will get you up a ton of fun routes and is all you really need for a time. However, if you find you like alpine climbing, you'll eventually push into the ice/mixed realm and start needing more stuff. Like anything else, go with someone experienced first and use their excess gear. Then, once you know what you like, start buying your own.

Anything that involves a lot of ice (not a ton of this in cali compared to the ammt of good rock climbs but it's there if you want it) take 2 to 10 screws. If it's >45deg and hard ice you'll probably want a real ice tool or two. This could be a big expense if you acquire it all at once but just get more gear as you get more experience and before you know it you'll have enough for you and a buddy.

A few small pins are good to have if you know the rock isn't so great. Occasionally I'll take two small knifeblades, a baby angle and a small lost arrow but it's a rarity to need this in cali. I only bother to take them on mixed routes where good placements may be covered/filled with snow/ice.

ExcitibleBoy wrote:

alleyehave wrote:I dont see the weight-to-benefit ratio paying out enough to carry pitons on an alpine climb...

KBs, Bugaboos and Lost Arrows can fit into cracks where nothing else will work. Angle pitons will still work in icy cracks that nuts or cams will slip out of. I consider them an essential on all genuine alpine routes.

A "genuine" climb that would potentially require pitons to bail probably isn't the best of choices for someone just starting out alpine climbing...just my .02