SummitPost.org

I've used I think they're called the anroid leashes with my bd venoms and they were a real pain in the ass. They are the ones you clip in and out of and I found them very inconveinient. I don't lead much but just following and trying to remove gear was a real hassel. Matter of fact the only time I used them in an alpine setting I dropped one of them on pitch two of a twelve pitch route. Have'nt used them since, I guess I just figured the main thing is don't f/@#king drop em.

Gabarrou for Grivel. It's obviously promotional material, but it has some interesting stuff, in particular, concerning the current thread, at 3:55.

These look pretty awesome. I'm thinking about picking up a set if they come out with a hammer model.
http://www.petzl.com/us/outdoor/classic-mountaineering-ice-axes-0/sumtec

If you're into spending $10 instead of $50 on the same thing that is marketed by a big company, you can easily make your own tether/umbilical:

http://www.alpinedave.com/leashless_rig.htm

I've done it and was very happy. I eliminated to the swivel to save weight. It takes bit of time to feed the shock cord through the webbing, but overall its not too bad and it saves $40. Plus, you get the satisfaction of using homemade gear.

Or, if a couple hours of you time is worth more to you than $40 and you want something lighter, simpler, and designed and executed for the purpose by professionals, just buy a commercial rig and be done with it.

KevinCraig wrote:Or, if a couple hours of you time is worth more to you than $40 and you want something lighter, simpler, and designed and executed for the purpose by professionals, just buy a commercial rig and be done with it.

Well, the one I made is lighter, simpler (fewer parts, but retains all the functionality I want), stronger (full strength webbing, could be used to anchor in if I wanted), than either the Grivel or BD models and took less than an hour to make while I was watching TV. Just because a company sells it, or it is "designed and executed by professionals," doesn't make it better.

Selling a glorified piece of webbing for $50 is a scam in my book.

kheegster wrote:I'm thinking of acquiring a pair of leashless tools this winter, and the dilemma is whether to get a pair of radically curved tools like the Nomic or Fusion that would be useless for alpine but suitable for mixed climbing (that I want to start getting into), or something like the Quark or Cobra...

I was looking at the new Fusions ..



Looks a little like a Nomic with a spike .. I have heard you can put a standard BD hammer on the head if you so desire. Looks like BD's website is taking orders, but mgear.com says "expected to ship by 12/01/09" Oh well, at 1 lb 6 oz each they sound too heavy for my strength-impaired arms anyway ..

Anyhow, I've read some scary things about Laser picks breaking .. maybe the Fusion picks are better in that regard.

kheegster wrote:I'm thinking of acquiring a pair of leashless tools this winter, and the dilemma is whether to get a pair of radically curved tools like the Nomic or Fusion that would be useless for alpine but suitable for mixed climbing (that I want to start getting into), or something like the Quark or Cobra...

My friend's partner climbed two routes on the North Buttress of Mt Hunter with a pair of Nomics. Doesn't get much more alpine than that. http://colinhaley.blogspot.com/2009/05/mt-hunter.html

Although he wasn't placing any pins... Ueli Steck on the Grades Jorasses: