Page 1 of 2

crampon recommendations?

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:28 pm
by catullus
Hey all,

I'm looking to invest in a pair of crampons. My adventures tend to include classical mountaineering and glacier traversing, but not ice-climbing. I have big feet (size 14 US). From the grivel website, it seems like the G10s are the model most closely rated for my adventures, but I'm wondering if since I have big feet, it would make sense to have more points. Any advice or other recommendations?

Thanks,
Chase

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 8:52 pm
by spiritualspatula
The Black Diamond Sabretooths are a good all-around option. I like mine quite a bit and have used them for everything but true ice. For your big feet, you'll need to purchase a longer center bar for $25ish, separately.

PostPosted: Mon Jan 04, 2010 9:09 pm
by Autoxfil
I use Sabretooths for everything up to WI4, and will try them on 5 if I get a chance. I would look for something a bit less agressive for your purposes - the Airtech (steel) would be excellent, but Petzl and BD also make great mountaineerig crampons: Vasak and Serac are the 12-point versions best for all-around use.

10-point are best for gentler slopes. I'd rather the extra points for french technique on steep mountains.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:03 am
by kaseri
Grivel G12's. Excellent general mountaineering crampons.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 1:24 am
by Alpinisto
I'm partial to the Grivel's, as I own several pairs. Either the G10 or G12 will be plenty fine for glacier work.

Really, though, any brand -- Grivel, Petzl, BD, CAMP, etc. -- can work. I believe all of these manufacturers make a longer center bar for large boots, which it sounds like you'll need. Just look for 'poons with horizontal front points and order the antibotts at the same time (if they don't come on the crampons from the factory).

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:07 am
by WouterB
kaseri wrote:Grivel G12's. Excellent general mountaineering crampons.


Very happy about those too.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:43 am
by timfoltz
First, i would recommend going with steel crampons, not lightweight aluminum. The steel will stand up to abuse better being your first pair of crampons.

Second, i would take your boots that you plan on using with your crampons and seeing which brand/model fits your boots better. Like others have said, nearly any brand will work, it more comes down to boot fit. My two roommates have two different brand crampons, camp and petzl and i have stubai and they all fit each others boots very differently. get crampons that fit your boots, not the other way around as boots are typically more expensive.

good luck.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:46 am
by Blair
PM Captain Beefheart, he has big ass feet too and has the knowledge on all gear known to mankind

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:56 am
by dskoon
WouterB wrote:
kaseri wrote:Grivel G12's. Excellent general mountaineering crampons.


Very happy about those too.


These seem to be the standard. . . although many are good.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 6:09 am
by Captain Beefheart
As Blair Stated I have size 14 feet (47-1/2 Sportiva) and G-12's work fine with the stock bar fully extended. I have some Petzl's that go big too. For General Mountaineering and moderate ice climbing, you cant go wrong with G-12's.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 10:57 am
by WouterB
sjarelkwint wrote:
dskoon wrote:
WouterB wrote:
kaseri wrote:Grivel G12's. Excellent general mountaineering crampons.


Very happy about those too.


These seem to be the standard. . . although many are good.


another Question

G10 - G12 or G14 ?


Depends on what you want to do. Walking in them: G10, walking up steeper terrain: G12, ice-climbing: G14.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:36 am
by WouterB
I'd get the G12's. They are more suited for you as you'd mostly walk on them and they'll still do OK on vertical ice. The G14's wouldn't do too well on walks. Apart from that, you can often find crampons for cheap on second hand websites.

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 11:43 am
by Big Benn
kaseri wrote:Grivel G12's. Excellent general mountaineering crampons.


I've used those a great deal for my winter mountain walking, (I don't climb). Often walked miles over ice and frozen snow wearing them. If they ever wear out I'll get another pair of the same.

Oh. For use on snow, make sure you get the plastic anti-bott plates. They really work!

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 12:14 pm
by WouterB
+1 for anti-botts

PostPosted: Tue Jan 05, 2010 2:43 pm
by divnamite
G12 will allow you to climb vertical waterfall ice and long snow and ice routes, I have done WI4s in them. G12 will serve you well for a long long time. G14 is much better for vertical water ice, but still ok for walking. I don't see the point of G10 unless you will only do glacier climbs.

I can't really explain it, but Grivel crampons have much better feel than BDs, maybe the new model of Sabretooth will do a better job. BD's Cyborg was a pain for me for some strange reason.

Make sure your crampons will work with your boots, my friend just found out his new Rambos don't fit Koflach's Expe boots.