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PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:11 pm
by b.
Joe White wrote:
b. wrote:
kovarpa wrote:
welle wrote: I know somebody who leads WI4+ and 5s on leashed quarks. That's burly!


why? easier to hang with the leashes.


Leading WI4 on two leashed piolets is burly. Quarks are like cheating. I know about 30 people who lead ice this way, although the alpine leash is the new hip way to keep your tools from plunging while you put in a screw. That's been my system for the last couple of years. Quarks are awesome for WI4-5. But if I were going to spend a bunch of money on tools, I'd just give it up for the Cobras. It's a whole different level.


random question...sorry.

Where do you think the Petzl Aztar's fit into the mix?


They look like a less aggressive curve than the quark, but still fine for all but the steepest ice and drytooling. The biggest problem is the lack of rests for leashless climbing. Those tools would be perfect for alpine ice, up to WI4. I'm sure you could get up a WI5 with them as well it's just more work to get the swing right with the lesser curve.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 7:35 pm
by rhyang
Looking at the Petzl site, it would seem the Aztars have been discontinued. Get your spare picks while you still can :)

edit: Oops, looks like they've kept the Aztarex in the lineup, which uses the same picks as the Aztar. False alarm.

PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2010 10:25 pm
by Joe White
b. wrote:
Joe White wrote:
b. wrote:
kovarpa wrote:
welle wrote: I know somebody who leads WI4+ and 5s on leashed quarks. That's burly!


why? easier to hang with the leashes.


Leading WI4 on two leashed piolets is burly. Quarks are like cheating. I know about 30 people who lead ice this way, although the alpine leash is the new hip way to keep your tools from plunging while you put in a screw. That's been my system for the last couple of years. Quarks are awesome for WI4-5. But if I were going to spend a bunch of money on tools, I'd just give it up for the Cobras. It's a whole different level.


random question...sorry.

Where do you think the Petzl Aztar's fit into the mix?


They look like a less aggressive curve than the quark, but still fine for all but the steepest ice and drytooling. The biggest problem is the lack of rests for leashless climbing. Those tools would be perfect for alpine ice, up to WI4. I'm sure you could get up a WI5 with them as well it's just more work to get the swing right with the lesser curve.


Thanks!

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 7:46 pm
by rhyang
Seems these guys are now (or soon to be) available .. have seen them on mgear.com and in their latest print catalog.

Picked this up off cascadeclimbers -

http://canadianalpinist.blogspot.com/20 ... -axes.html

Interesting take on the new quark for example -
The New Quark:
- super light, a bit shorter, and similar clearance to the old Quark.
- Will replace the old Aztar and Quark.
- Almost everyone I let use this tool said it was the best swinging tool they have ever used.
- Swings similar to the old Aztar or Aztarex but has more clearance and better grip.
- My 'go to' tool for WI 5 and below.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:01 pm
by bird
Joe White wrote:
b. wrote:
kovarpa wrote:
welle wrote: I know somebody who leads WI4+ and 5s on leashed quarks. That's burly!


why? easier to hang with the leashes.


Leading WI4 on two leashed piolets is burly. Quarks are like cheating. I know about 30 people who lead ice this way, although the alpine leash is the new hip way to keep your tools from plunging while you put in a screw. That's been my system for the last couple of years. Quarks are awesome for WI4-5. But if I were going to spend a bunch of money on tools, I'd just give it up for the Cobras. It's a whole different level.


random question...sorry.

Where do you think the Petzl Aztar's fit into the mix?

Aztars are great for bashing your knuckles. Mm fighters should train with them.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 14, 2010 9:01 pm
by bird
Joe White wrote:
b. wrote:
kovarpa wrote:
welle wrote: I know somebody who leads WI4+ and 5s on leashed quarks. That's burly!


why? easier to hang with the leashes.


Leading WI4 on two leashed piolets is burly. Quarks are like cheating. I know about 30 people who lead ice this way, although the alpine leash is the new hip way to keep your tools from plunging while you put in a screw. That's been my system for the last couple of years. Quarks are awesome for WI4-5. But if I were going to spend a bunch of money on tools, I'd just give it up for the Cobras. It's a whole different level.


random question...sorry.

Where do you think the Petzl Aztar's fit into the mix?

Aztars are great for bashing your knuckles. Mm fighters should train with them.

PostPosted: Wed Sep 15, 2010 4:54 am
by connollyck
Aztars are fine unless you're retarded and have no control of your swing