SummitPost.org

I'm looking at buying one for an ice climb I plan on doing in two weeks. I was looking at Petzls and Black Diamonds. I was surprised to see Petzls can not take a loaded fall but it looks like Black Diamonds can. I don't know much about them and as of now I plan to buy the BD one but if there are others out that are just as good or better I would consider them. Also other information regarding them and advice is welcome!

BD


Petzl


DMM

These were designed as desperation protection for iced up cracks and quick pound in in extremely marginal placements. They are more psychological protection than anything. Second the above comment, save your money or buy yourself some real ice pro.

If the ice is deep enough to pound one of these in to the hilt - place a 13cm screw.
If the crack is wide enough to get one of these in easily - place a real piton or a small nut.
If the ice is too thin to take a screw - none of these pitons will hold a fall.

They work great here for A3+ thru A5 sections...

They are also very useful on frozen moss in Hyalite.

Alright thanks for the help all. I was mainly going to use it for a quick piece of pro I would place while taking a rest for added security. I have plenty of screws though that would do the same job my only concern is they take longer to place. I guess I'll save the money and practice placing screws more. Sounds more logical anyway.

Thanks again!

Hotoven wrote: I was mainly going to use it for a quick piece of pro I would place while taking a rest for added security.

Clip your PAS into the bottom of one of your bomber placed tools... I do it all the time when the burn comes. Have been doing it for well over 20 years and works great.

Andy Kirkpatrick talks these up in his book as a piece he likes to have one or two of for the odd marginal ice or turf placement but states they can be very solid in rock. The recommendation is to look for placements where they are used more as a hook than a piton. If taking advantage of their hooky nature, hopefully it'll be easier to get it back out!

I'm all for saving your money also, however, it looks like a "fun" piece to have on your rack if things get adventurous.

Yeah, this post is completely devoid of actual useful experience...