Re: Ice Screws - Rack
Posted: Mon Sep 19, 2011 8:57 amHello,
Took a long while to answer, but my bet right now would probably be:
4* Grivel Speedy 10S or 20S (for general use)
2* 16cm Grivel 360 (for difficult to clear placements and general use with extensible draws)
2* 13cm BD Express (for general use with extensible draws)
2* 16cm BD Express (for general use with extensible draws and stances)
1* 22cm BD Express (for Abalakovs and stances)
Grivel's and BD's are both good quality screws. BD's seem to have slightly better initial bite, whereas Grivels seem to have slightly longer lasting finish.
Obviously the actual rack to carry would depend on route ahead and weather conditions. For instance for warmer weather I might carry my light E-climb klaus, on a clear solid route I would be leaning towards shorter screws and on a route where I need plenty of extensible draws I would leave the speedys home. + I have come around plenty of such screws that I'd like to test out (see: http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&q=typeid:61). For instance USHBA Mountain Gear produces interesting light titanium screws with a knob called Ultimate (http://www.tribevine.com/product/9781/Ushba%20Mountain%20Works/Ultimate).
And yes, there's plenty of room to fine tune it + it's a matter of preference.
Took a long while to answer, but my bet right now would probably be:
4* Grivel Speedy 10S or 20S (for general use)
2* 16cm Grivel 360 (for difficult to clear placements and general use with extensible draws)
2* 13cm BD Express (for general use with extensible draws)
2* 16cm BD Express (for general use with extensible draws and stances)
1* 22cm BD Express (for Abalakovs and stances)
Grivel's and BD's are both good quality screws. BD's seem to have slightly better initial bite, whereas Grivels seem to have slightly longer lasting finish.
Obviously the actual rack to carry would depend on route ahead and weather conditions. For instance for warmer weather I might carry my light E-climb klaus, on a clear solid route I would be leaning towards shorter screws and on a route where I need plenty of extensible draws I would leave the speedys home. + I have come around plenty of such screws that I'd like to test out (see: http://www.tribevine.com/quicksearch?open=true&q=typeid:61). For instance USHBA Mountain Gear produces interesting light titanium screws with a knob called Ultimate (http://www.tribevine.com/product/9781/Ushba%20Mountain%20Works/Ultimate).
And yes, there's plenty of room to fine tune it + it's a matter of preference.