(shoes) overkill or just right? (easier 4000+)
Posted: Sat Jan 18, 2014 12:04 am
Hello guys,
I am currently looking for some new mountaineering shoes. I have to put this into a perspective, though. So far I have had 5 holidays that involved a certain degree of climbing (1 in Austria, 4 in Norway). Because I went to Austria on my 15th, I haven't climbed above 3500 (didn't involve any 'tools' and relatively simple climbs). The years after that I went to Norway 4 times. Because last year I went with a group of friends, we were able to climb the Galdhoppigen (highest mountain Scandinavia, but technically very easy). While before that my shoes were never a constraint (In the previous years I had done around 10-15 climbs with a 1000-1500M altitude difference, also technically very easy), I noticed that they really began to tear down (B/C shoes). Moreover, they were not that water resistant as they used to be and I lost my grip many times while climbing down.
For this year, we are heading towards the alps (I live in the Netherlands, so it's only 10 hours away from here). We are planning to climb the easier 4000+ mountain Bishorn as a 'main objective' and some easier mountains around 3500 or so. Our technical skills are limited, but we are considering to buy crampons for this year's climbs. All in all, it is time for a new pair of shoes.
If I would summarize what I am looking for (I added the last point because I feel that we as a group are heading towards that point, provided we would then have had some extra training on technical tools):
[*]A shoe that is able to perform on rocks and snow
[*]A shoe that is comfortable for a long time and can be used during the entire climb
[*]A shoe that would technically be sufficient to climb Mont Blanc
So far, I am tending to pick the Hanwag Friction GTX http://www.hanwag.de/schuh-detail.php?shoe_id=120, the Hanwag Cengalo http://www.hanwag.de/schuh-detail.php?shoe_id=212 or the La sportiva Trango extreme http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-extreme-evo-%20lt-gtx
La Sportiva and Hanwag are widely available in the Netherlands (and meindl to a certain extend as well). Currently, from the 3 shoes above, I tempt to go for the Hanwag Friction GTX, which is considered as a C/D shoe. I am very interested to know if someone could advise me whether these shoes are prepared for what I want them to do, and which one of the three would be the best pick. Alternatively, I am especially interested to hear from people who climbed galdhoppigen (to determine if I am correct that B/C's are a little too less for it) and from people who climbed Bishorn and what particular shoe they've used to do so.
(Hanwag uses this rating system, which is quite a popular way to determine the category of mountain shoes in the Netherlands)
D = very stiff and fully crampon compatible (clip on-/automatic crampons). (Nepal evo)
C = stiff with crampon compatibility (strap on-/semi-automatic crampons). (La sportiva trango, Hanwag Cengalo etc.)
B = firm foothold, but with a more flexible sole for trekking and hiking.
A = soft, highly flexible construction. (Light hiking shoes)
Shoes can be in an 'in-between category'. My previous shoes were B/C (more C), the Hanwag Friction is C/D , with more C. There is some flexibility in the system.
I am currently looking for some new mountaineering shoes. I have to put this into a perspective, though. So far I have had 5 holidays that involved a certain degree of climbing (1 in Austria, 4 in Norway). Because I went to Austria on my 15th, I haven't climbed above 3500 (didn't involve any 'tools' and relatively simple climbs). The years after that I went to Norway 4 times. Because last year I went with a group of friends, we were able to climb the Galdhoppigen (highest mountain Scandinavia, but technically very easy). While before that my shoes were never a constraint (In the previous years I had done around 10-15 climbs with a 1000-1500M altitude difference, also technically very easy), I noticed that they really began to tear down (B/C shoes). Moreover, they were not that water resistant as they used to be and I lost my grip many times while climbing down.
For this year, we are heading towards the alps (I live in the Netherlands, so it's only 10 hours away from here). We are planning to climb the easier 4000+ mountain Bishorn as a 'main objective' and some easier mountains around 3500 or so. Our technical skills are limited, but we are considering to buy crampons for this year's climbs. All in all, it is time for a new pair of shoes.
If I would summarize what I am looking for (I added the last point because I feel that we as a group are heading towards that point, provided we would then have had some extra training on technical tools):
[*]A shoe that is able to perform on rocks and snow
[*]A shoe that is comfortable for a long time and can be used during the entire climb
[*]A shoe that would technically be sufficient to climb Mont Blanc
So far, I am tending to pick the Hanwag Friction GTX http://www.hanwag.de/schuh-detail.php?shoe_id=120, the Hanwag Cengalo http://www.hanwag.de/schuh-detail.php?shoe_id=212 or the La sportiva Trango extreme http://www.sportiva.com/products/footwear/mountain/trango-extreme-evo-%20lt-gtx
La Sportiva and Hanwag are widely available in the Netherlands (and meindl to a certain extend as well). Currently, from the 3 shoes above, I tempt to go for the Hanwag Friction GTX, which is considered as a C/D shoe. I am very interested to know if someone could advise me whether these shoes are prepared for what I want them to do, and which one of the three would be the best pick. Alternatively, I am especially interested to hear from people who climbed galdhoppigen (to determine if I am correct that B/C's are a little too less for it) and from people who climbed Bishorn and what particular shoe they've used to do so.
(Hanwag uses this rating system, which is quite a popular way to determine the category of mountain shoes in the Netherlands)
D = very stiff and fully crampon compatible (clip on-/automatic crampons). (Nepal evo)
C = stiff with crampon compatibility (strap on-/semi-automatic crampons). (La sportiva trango, Hanwag Cengalo etc.)
B = firm foothold, but with a more flexible sole for trekking and hiking.
A = soft, highly flexible construction. (Light hiking shoes)
Shoes can be in an 'in-between category'. My previous shoes were B/C (more C), the Hanwag Friction is C/D , with more C. There is some flexibility in the system.