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Fellow climbers,

I'm climbing a 7000m in India next year and am facing a decision choosing between either of the two boots. I've been offered them in a similar price range (both second hand);
Spantik (44) - USD350
Oly Mons (45) - USD450

Currently, my Nepal Evo's are 44.5 and I feel they may be half a size bigger but I feel comfortable in them. Which boots do you recommend I purchase?

Thanks in advance

What are you hoping to do afterwards? If you plan to climb higher then the OlyMons are the choice. If you think this 7000ers is the highest you'll ever climb, get Spantiks.

If it's only just over 7000m (Satopanth?) then the Spantiks should be OK. If it's higher (Kamet?) you need the OlyMons.

I have both models. I've never got cold feet in my OlyMons, even on numerous trips to Antarctica. At around 6700m on Peak Lenin at 4am one foot got a little cold in the Spantiks and I had to stop and rub it to warm it, luckily on flat ground.

Some 7000ers are colder/warmer than others - 6000m in the Karakoram can be swelteringly hot, or frigid cold in the Tian Shan. India is most likely in-between, tending toward hot.

Going to the same peak in October will be colder than going there in May.

The OlyMons are significantly warmer boots, but less durable, less versatile and of course less technical. They are a more forgiving fit as they have more insulation/padding.

US$450 for used OlyMons is expensive. They would want to be in excellent condition.

Damien,

Thanks so much for your informative reply.

I'll be attempting Kun (7077m) and I plan to continue climbing other 7000'ers and move onto 8000'ers.

Regarding the sizing, do you have both the Spantik's and Oly Mon's in the same size?

I'm just a bit confused right now because currently my Nepal Evo's are at 44.5 and they might be half or even a size bigger but have done trips on them without any issues. I've been recommended to stay at a size higher for 7000m+ as your foot tends to swell. Would you agree with this?

Thanks!

Karakorum-2 wrote:Regarding the sizing, do you have both the Spantik's and Oly Mon's in the same size?

I'm just a bit confused right now because currently my Nepal Evo's are at 44.5 and they might be half or even a size bigger but have done trips on them without any issues. I've been recommended to stay at a size higher for 7000m+ as your foot tends to swell. Would you agree with this?

Mine are the same size - EU47 in all my Sportiva boots, including Nepal Extremes.

As for fit, you really need to try them on. As every gear forum will tell you, every person's foot is different and no boots fit everyone the same. If you can't try them on at all, then always better to err on the big side for altitude boots. You can wear extra socks, so long as they don't restrict circulation, and can put in an extra flat footbed as well as an orthotic footbed for better fit (this is what I do).

The other issue is half-sizes. I can't remember the details, someone here should, but on Sportivas either the inners or the shells only go up full sizes, so using halves might not make much difference. An OlyMons 45 might be fine, but will depend on how fat your foot is as well, as to how much it might move around. Also, being 2nd-hand boots, the inner boots will be packed down somewhat already, so sizing them for yourself will not be exactly the same as new boots.

The foot swelling at altitude thing is generally accepted, though I'm not sure of hard evidence and I personally don't see it as a huge issue*. It would affect width/volume/tightness more than front-to-back length anyway.

As for the two boots - sounds like Oly Mons would be the better choice given your plans.


*This should not be confused with an older issue of alveolite inner boots, as on Koflach Arctic Extreme etc, whose foam cells expanded at altitude, constricting the foot.

FWIW... I've used every line of LS mountain boots from the S Evo to the Mons and they have always been between 43.5 and 44. I remember the double boots(Baruntse, Spantiks, Mons) shells have one size increase and liners in half size.

I would say get the Spantika for now because climbing anything below 6,500m is too hot in the Mons. The approach on anything but snow will wear out the Mons very fast. It has softer rubber sole compared to the other boots. They are also clumsy shoes. Also, by the time you have enough cash to climb an 8,000m peak, you will have enough money for a pair of Mons.

Damien, thanks a ton for your prompt and informative replies!

Kevin, thanks for the suggestion. This has me thinking again. I won't be using the Oly Mons on approach but only on snow. Kun is a 7077m climb, so do you still reckon the Spantik's would be warm enough for this? I've read about plenty of people using it and the reviews have been great. The only thing is that the Oly Mons are only $100 more than the Spantik's (both second hand), so I'm torn between the two now!

Karakorum-2 wrote: Kun is a 7077m climb, so do you still reckon the Spantik's would be warm enough for this?

They should be fine for there - unless your feet and boots are cold to start with, in which case nothing will get your feet warm. Inner boots in your sleeping bag, outers inside the tent, not left out. It's not just the gear, but how you use it.

Kevin is correct that the OlyMons will get worn badly on moraines, and are too hot down low, but I figured you could wear your Nepal EVO carrying down low, up to 6000m, and save your OlyMons for higher.

Thanks Damien, that's a good idea - using the Evo's up until 6000m or until it gets cold and then gearing up with the Oly Mons. I think I will stick with this approach and purchase the Oly Mons.