SummitPost.org

Posted this over on another site, but figured I would try here too--

I am looking to climb Cayambe and Chimborazo in mid-December. I climbed Orizaba last December and used LS Nepal Evo's with one thick mountaineering sock. I slept at 5000m in a tent and left at about 3:30am to get on the glacier and absolutely froze my toes off...had tingling for about a month after. I was wondering if I could get away with Evo's for Ecuador peaks ie if there is any trick to warm the feet up or use these boots...OR do I need to bite the bullet and rent plastics there or buy a pair of Spantik's and try to sell my Evo's??

I had two guides in Ecuador write to me and say that around 80% of people are using Evo's and you could get an insulated sock with Primaloft. But, I am worried I will kill my trip if I go and freeze my feet.

Any thoughts??

Don't mess around with your Evo boots. Ecuador's volcanoes are exposed and see high winds - they can be very, very cold. Chimborazo's true summit involves a decent amount of time exposed above 6000m.

I'd recommend you keep your Evo for lower altitude climbs and buy a used pair of Koflach Shells for Ecuador.

Hi,

I did the same as you, I wore Evos with a heavy sock on Orizaba, my toes were a little cold but not to bad, when I was on Cayambe and Chimborazo I wore Spantiks and I am glad I did, Chimbo was cold and had some high winds. I really believe that I would have been in trouble with Evos. Good luck.

I wore Baruntses on Cayambe and Cotopaxi. Didn't even consider bringing my Nepals.

On a similar vein, how is the warmth for Nepal Cube Evo vs Batura 2.0?