minimal carabiner for Munter rappel
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 8:17 pm
Yesterday I tried a Munter rappel with the modest gear I often carry on class 3/4 "hikes," when other folks are along.
I was surprised how well it went considering the materials -- two 50' pieces of webbing (10/16" and 9/16", tied), a sling over a large (5-ton) wedged rock, a locking carabiner, and light harness. I was able to go down some vertical stuff, which I certainly wouldn't try with a dulfer. The locking carabiner was a modest-sized BD offset D, and I was watching how the hitch moved as I descended, rather nervously; but aside from some funky deformation of the webbing, and noticeable warmth, all was fine. (I know I'm supposed to use a pear-shaped carabiner, but if I had one of those along, I would probably have better stuff all around.)
Bear with me; remember that this testing was meant to scope out emergency situations. I'm not a climber, and would never plan on using this stuff for a normal situation.
Question: would you ever consider an emergency rappel, not very long, with a Munter hitch on a non-locking carabiner? A wire-gate carabiner? I rappeled just twice, and both times the hitch seemed to keep securely on one end; I couldn't see an obvious mode of failure for a wire-gate carabiner, but somehow the mere thought of a non-locking carabiner was creepy.
I was surprised how well it went considering the materials -- two 50' pieces of webbing (10/16" and 9/16", tied), a sling over a large (5-ton) wedged rock, a locking carabiner, and light harness. I was able to go down some vertical stuff, which I certainly wouldn't try with a dulfer. The locking carabiner was a modest-sized BD offset D, and I was watching how the hitch moved as I descended, rather nervously; but aside from some funky deformation of the webbing, and noticeable warmth, all was fine. (I know I'm supposed to use a pear-shaped carabiner, but if I had one of those along, I would probably have better stuff all around.)
Bear with me; remember that this testing was meant to scope out emergency situations. I'm not a climber, and would never plan on using this stuff for a normal situation.
Question: would you ever consider an emergency rappel, not very long, with a Munter hitch on a non-locking carabiner? A wire-gate carabiner? I rappeled just twice, and both times the hitch seemed to keep securely on one end; I couldn't see an obvious mode of failure for a wire-gate carabiner, but somehow the mere thought of a non-locking carabiner was creepy.