SummitPost.org

I've tried to find a good answer for this online, but so far no luck. At what angle do most people start considering roping up to belay on steep snow? (Note: Obviously on glaciers of any incline you should rope up, but I'm specifically referring to couloirs or other steep nonglacial snow)

For me and my climbing buddies, it depends upon how hard the snow is and what kind of run-out we're facing at the bottom. If the snow is somewhat soft and an arrest could stop a long slide we've climbed snow slopes up to around 40-45 degrees without a rope. If that slope were frozen hard or had a rock pit or other hazards at the bottom, we'd pull out a rope. As kind of a rule, if we use a rope then we're going to use anchors and a belay with the logic being that if one person fell and pulled the team down then why use a rope? Our rule number two is: "If any one person in our group feels the need for a rope then we rope up".

Bob

reboyles wrote:For me and my climbing buddies, it depends upon how hard the snow is and what kind of run-out we're facing at the bottom. If the snow is somewhat soft and an arrest could stop a long slide we've climbed snow slopes up to around 40-45 degrees without a rope. If that slope were frozen hard or had a rock pit or other hazards at the bottom, we'd pull out a rope. As kind of a rule, if we use a rope then we're going to use anchors and a belay with the logic being that if one person fell and pulled the team down then why use a rope? Our rule number two is: "If any one person in our group feels the need for a rope then we rope up".

Bob

Fair enough; otherwise, why to use rope at all.

reboyles wrote:As kind of a rule, if we use a rope then we're going to use anchors and a belay with the logic being that if one person fell and pulled the team down then why use a rope?"

That makes sense to me--is this as a running belay?

I agree, only rope up on steep ground if you are going to use a belay and protection. Can be a running belay (a bit dangerous) or an anchored belay. Snow is the most difficult medium to protect, so it is almost safest to climb unroped unless there is rock or ice for protection.

It really depends if you are planning on climbing snow or ice. Sometimes snow turns to ice in the morning so one is unable to kick steps in without crampons, which is another debate again. But when you are dealing with snow, you can usually get good foot holds enabling safe and more secure balance, which can make you feel safe in terrain that you would need a rope on if it were ice.

So, 95% of the time you should be able to climb unroped in as steep as the terrain that you are in holds snow (don't get confused between snow and ice here), which seems to vary alot from area to area. Except in some places like the Andes where the Mountains are famous for holding snow in far steeper terrain than the norm.

Ps as for non glaciated snow slopes, you can and should rope eachother across avalanche start zones in certain conditions.