TimB wrote:I am considering purchasing a small hang board for my climbing fitness program and have a few questions:
1) is it even advisable for a beginner to work a hang board?
2) what sort of holds would be best for a novice that top-ropes ~5.8? I am assuming hand-width size jugs and such?
3) Is there a fairly high risk of muscle/tendon injury for someone new to the sport on a hang board?
I realize that 3) may be a bit tough to answer, but any help is appreciated.
1) Yes/No No as in need to develop judgement on how to maneuver your body/transfer weight from hold to hold all of which is impossible to do on a board.
2) Jug, 1 1/2 knuckle depth
3) YES I have seen someone injure themselves the very first try at the recommended below "holds" as they thought they were "BUFF" and "IN SHAPE" and tried the smaller bottom hold to be macho. They pulled their middle finger and it wasn't ok until 2-3 months later.
I would not recommend a finger board as the temptation to try the small holds is frankly overwhelming. I would recommend a Meteolus Chock pair of jug hold and pull up pieces. Yes, all you do is "hang", but it gets the job done. These holds have a rope that goes through the top portion. Hang in the garage and FOLLOW THEIR WRITE UP INSTRUCTIONS! The "work outs" frankly seem absurdly easy on the "easy" portion until you wake up 2 days later and observe, that you actually ache. NEVER, do this back to back days when starting out. Day on, DAY OFF, day on... etc. Maybe you are in better shape and can do the beginning medium workouts(probably can). Off days you can still do pull ups, Iron man "T", "ring" work outs using the jug holds. Highly recommended actually as it works muscles in different motions that free weights just never do, especially building up your neck muscles and rotator cuff muscles. Tendons cartilage require a LOT of time to strengthen. Your muscles will buff up far quicker than your tendons. DO NOT DO any DYNAMIC MOVES especially when starting out.
Work your core muscles while hanging and being bored while hanging. Get those legs straight out and buff up your back muscles and abs.
A nice big 2" rope is great training as well for upper body strength training. Always humorous when your buddies come over and try it...
Of course nothing beats climbing even on a climbing wall. Once again if you have access to a climbing wall DO NOT DO THIS but every other day to give time for your tendons to strengthen. Once your tendons begin to ache, STOP, otherwise you won't be able to do it for 3 days maybe 4 if you push to where it hurts. KNOW YOUR BODY. Once you build your tendons up a bit you can begin to do light work between main finger strengthening days or if have access to a climbing wall, LAPS on the easy sections.