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Hello,

I read quite a lot about this topic but could not find exactly an answer to my question which is:
Should I remove as much as weight as necessary (maybe something like 30ish pounds :-p) in order to do the full hangboard workout or if I should keep it the way it is with a moderate weight removed and gradually improve until I can do the whole workout?

I made myself a board close the beastmaker 1000, I downloaded the App and have been trying their easiest workout.
Their sessions follow this model.

7 seconds hang 3 secondes rest, all of this 7 times.
After that you have 2:30 min of rest and repeat the previous steps 5 more times
You repeat the 2 previous times 5 more times with a 5 minutes rest between each "big set"

Overall it 18 sets, 19 min of hanging out of a 45 min workout.

Currently issue is that I can do about 8 out of the 18 sets when I remove 16 pounds of my weight through pulley.
and hardly 6 if I don't remove any weight.


for some personal context I have been climbing for little bit more than a year, I climb between 5.10c and 11.b. I climb every 2-3 days but if for any reasons I can't make it I use the board instead.

Thanks for your advice,

Raphael

Ditch the board and climb a lot more. Once you are climbing at least 3-4 times a week and you find yourself no longer progressing, then think about a hang board. And lose weight.

thanks for the answers, my plan is to climb every other day, so 3-4 times a week, but if I can't I would like still to do something useful climbing wise.

nb: regarding my own weight, I am 165 pounds and 5'10", if I get lighter my GF will be mad ^^

raphy wrote:thanks for the answers, my plan is to climb every other day, so 3-4 times a week, but if I can't I would like still to do something useful climbing wise.

Seriously, if you have only been climbing for a year, you really don't need to work your grip strength, your time would be better spent climbing to work on technique. The best climbers I climbed with never trained or used a grip board, they just climbed a lot.

Do you have a weight lifting routine? You need to work the opposing muscles to prevent long term injuries. Just a general purpose upper body, torso, legs routine with a lot of body weight/functional type exercises. I have a small gym in my garage, basically a set of gymnastic rings, a big ball, an some free weights. Here is what works for me:

o Ring Pull Ups – to failure
o Sitting Dumbbell Military Press 12-15 reps

o Hanging Leg Raises x 12
o Ball Crunch x 25
o Plank 60 seconds (increasing by 15 second)

o Ring Dips 12 – 15
o Bent Over Dumbbell Row 12-15

o Ring Push Ups – to failure (elevate feet to match rings)
o Sitting Concentration Curl 12-15

o Ring Lever Ups
o Ball Dumbbell Press

o One Legged Bending Squat 12-15 (stand on stool to increase difficulty)
o Walking Lunges 12

If you need a pulley to hang, it's probably not the best time to start at it. Until you can comfortably hang with your body weight, I would focus on other things such as core, biceps, etc.