SummitPost.org

I'm looking at moving to Helena, MT, and I was hoping to get some feedback from people who have lived in or spent time in the area. I'd really like to live somewhere that has relatively close access to rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking. From what I've been able to find it looks like there are some mountain biking trails in the area, but I'm not sure about the rest.

What's the general atmosphere of Helena like? How about the quality/quantity of climbing, bc skiing, and biking? Thanks in advance for your replies!

Bloody cold in the winter.

Boise is the place to be!

I lived in Butte and Missoula up until a few years ago.

I noticed your from Logan, UT well there is no City of Rocks nearby. Some of the climbing around Butte is somewhat comparable though not as concentrated. Humbug Spires is sweet.

The Limestone found near Helena West of the Big Belt mountains is great. It's next to Canyon Ferrys east side and hides numerous limestone canyons on its eastern shore. Inside these hidden slots lie hundreds of challenging, bolted sport climbs. There is also some good trad to be found.

A lot of the canyons such as Refrigerator, Meriwhether, and Hanging Valley are something you would expect to see in Southern Utah.

Your near the Pintlar Mtns-Flint creek range, Tobbaco Roots, and of course the second largest wilderness in the country just to the Northwest of town, THE BOB MARSHALL!

The Neveda Mountain area 25 miles north of Helena offers mountain biking and some great backcountry skiing on the Continental Divide. Also Electric Peak has some good mountain biking.

If you enjoy the water try to get a permit on the Smith River. Good Luck though.

There is a couple of great brewries in town, try the OPA at Blackfoot.

Notice though I don't mention much of the actual city. Well I never enjoyed it much when I was younger and haven't really been "in" the city in some time.

Oh and it can be "really" cold. Just north of town at Rodgers pass in 1954 it was an amazing 70 below. The coldest in the U.S. outside of Alaska.

rmich, thanks a lot for the info. It sounds like there is quite a bit to do up there. And in terms of limestone climbing that sounds just like what we have up Logan Canyon. The biggest concern for me is being near some quality backcountry skiing, and it's good to hear that there is some skiing near town. It's OK if it's not the most happening city in the west, coming from Logan I think nearly anything would be an upgrade. Thanks again!

mtybumpo wrote:Boise is the place to be!

....So they loaded up the truck and moved to Boi-se

Jack-

I lived in Helena for almost two decades. I moved away a few years back but still visit family regularly. Great place to grow up.

The best part of being in Helena was the location to other things in the state. Honestly, it wasn't all that close to some prime areas for many of the activities you're asking about. For instance: skiing around Helena is so-so at best. BC skiing is almost nonexistent w/i an hour or two of town. However, it's only 3 hours from great BC skiing in the Gallatin and Madison Ranges to the south, the same to the Bitterroot and Flint Creek Ranges to the west, and 2ish hours or more to the Swan, Mission, and Front Ranges to the north (with Glacier NP beyond).
Quality: near town- extremely poor / away from town- good, but access can be difficult (many use a snowmobile)
Quantity: near town- almost zilch / away from town- much better

As for climbing, there are a few opportunities near town: Indian Creek outside of Townsend with a bunch of sport routes, limestone walls/canyons all around the valley (e.g. Hellgate), a few granite spires to the south (Sheep Mountain). Much of it is quiet (very few folks) and has good rock, but probably would never qualify as a vacation destination for climbers (not concentrated, not super dramatic, etc.). The dedicated local folks probably get out a lot and enjoy it all, but still take annual trips elsewhere to climb the spectacular stuff. Trailheads for sweet alpine options exist within 4-5 hours of town (e.g Mt Cowen in the Montana Absarokas). As for ice, Helena is ~3 hours from Hyalite Canyon, a world class ice climbing area.
Quality: near town- decent / away from town- good
Quantity: near town- good / away from town- great

Mountain biking is a whole other story. In the last 15+ years, the trail system adjacent to Helena (in the public lands south of town) has taken off and provides dozens if not hundreds of routes in and around the ridges. You can literally park near the library downtown, be on single track within a quarter mile and lost in the trees above town in a mile or less. Need a two hour ride after work? Just bike to work an hit the trail if you're anywhere near the south end of town. Numerous other options exist around in the valley (e.g. Big Belts, Nevada Peak, Elkhorns all within an hour).
Quality: near town- good / away from town- very good
Quantity: near town- unbelievably awesome / away from town- great


Then comes atmosphere. Helena is starting to develop of decent crowd of 20s and early 30s folks. Emphasis on “starting” as this has not always been the case. It was virtually absent a decade ago. But a progressively younger state employee workforce and newer events/venues (e.g. Alive at Five concerts [weekly, free] during the summer are hopping, Blackfoot Brewery tap room) have been bringing the town to life for a the younger crowd. That said, it could be a difficult place to break into the local crowd without serious effort. It'd be good to know a local before you move to get your foot in the door.


Oh, and almost anywhere in Montana can be “really” cold. That's what down is for...

-ph

I lived in Montana, for almost ten years, And have since moved to colorado. I do miss the remoteness of montana, But not the WINTERS. To compare the two states, as far as sports activities, They don't compare. I found it difficult to backcountry ski, mainly, because getting above tree line, took a lot of work. As far as the rock climbing, there are good places to climb, up there, but always required at least couple of hours driving. I met a friend in Helena, on Memorial day, one year( I think 2003) We went climbing on some granite, about fifteen mile south, of the city, and it snowed most of the weekend. Me and my girlfriend went climbing yesterday,Jan 10 in southern wet mountains (Colorado) Sunny mid 50's . made some powder turns last weekend. Not Bad.

pyerger wrote:I lived in Montana, for almost ten years, And have since moved to colorado. I do miss the remoteness of montana, But not the WINTERS. To compare the two states, as far as sports activities, They don't compare. I found it difficult to backcountry ski, mainly, because getting above tree line, took a lot of work. As far as the rock climbing, there are good places to climb, up there, but always required at least couple of hours driving. I met a friend in Helena, on Memorial day, one year( I think 2003) We went climbing on some granite, about fifteen mile south, of the city, and it snowed most of the weekend. Me and my girlfriend went climbing yesterday,Jan 10 in southern wet mountains (Colorado) Sunny mid 50's . made some powder turns last weekend. Not Bad.

This is exactly the view that we hope to perpetuate!

Winter, winter, winter! Coming from WI and UT it can't be that bad, right? Anyway, thanks for all the advice, it's helped. Sounds like Helena climbing and mountain biking is good/excellent and the bc skiing is lacking. I'm looking into Butte, too, so maybe that has a bit more skiing (or is at least closer to it). Cheers!

jackstraw0083 wrote:Winter, winter, winter! Coming from WI and UT it can't be that bad, right? Anyway, thanks for all the advice, it's helped. Sounds like Helena climbing and mountain biking is good/excellent and the bc skiing is lacking. I'm looking into Butte, too, so maybe that has a bit more skiing (or is at least closer to it). Cheers!

Yes, you'll be fine in winter here. It's not Alaska...

Butte's climbing opportunities are similar to Helena, mtn biking trails close to town don't begin to compare, and bc skiing is perhaps slightly better (closer to the Anaconda-Pintler, Highland, and Flint Creek Ranges), but you still have access issues near town unless you use a snowmobile.

Butte and Helena are both pretty close to some great skiing, but it's the quick strike stashes that are missing. The snow is a little less reliable than in some other areas (Bitterroot, Bridgers) but the terrain is there when the snow is good. Helena is also close to Canyon Ferry lake which is about as beachy as you get during the summer in Montucky. Rock climbing is a little better in Butte, but that's just my opinion. Maybe just a matter of preference since the rock is different. I don't know much about the social scene in Helena. Butte has some surprising music going on that I wouldn't expect if I didn't know it was there. What is it that's driving you towards those two places?

What is it that's driving you towards those two places?

I'm trying to find a job in a relatively small mountain town that will keep me in the Intermountain west. I have a nice job in Logan right now, and the bc skiing, climbing, and mtn biking are all really nice here, but socially Logan is a bit lacking (I know, I'm picky).

There are jobs available in my field in both Butte and Helena, although prospects look better in Helena, so I'm just trying to figure out where I would be happiest. I've been focusing on Montana because I've spent some there (mainly Bozeman and Missoula) and it seems like a really nice place to live.