SummitPost.org

Anyone who has been on Cowen summit, would like suggested gear beta.

Anyone up for doing Cowen give an email shout out.
Same for some northern Winds peaks.

the "standard" route up Cowen, up from Elbow Lake, does not require and technical gear.

The moves are a little exposed, but still 4th class. The NE Arete takes a small rack, up to #2 maybe. There really is only one real pitch but the rope speeds things up. I'd go, but I'm headed to the Gulf Coast to clean oil tomorrow.

Climbed standard route on Cowen on July 24, 2010. Ice ax came in handy below the SW couloir, still lots of snow there from the pothole lake up into the couloir. Crampons would have been nice too, but left them at home, sadly.

No other gear necessary, although the exposure on the 15ft 5.4 pitch up the summit block may leave some wishing for a rope... especially coming down.

If you've got the resources, take a summit register (canister, paper, and pencil) if you head up this year. The last two are both cracked, waterlogged and falling apart.

Is the pitch B described as Class 4 the same one PHugger described as 5.4, correct? (And I completely understand, if so).
Haven't gone to Cowen yet but may go there or Big Horns if anyone's interested.

jimmyjay wrote:Is the pitch B described as Class 4 the same one PHugger described as 5.4, correct? (And I completely understand, if so).
Haven't gone to Cowen yet but may go there or Big Horns if anyone's interested.

Probably, although there's a good 3-4 short sections of solid class 4 below the summit on the south face, plus another Class 4 section in the SW couloir if you stay left of the sketch scree (one could stay on Class 3 terrain if they wished, but the footing is quite loose). I thought the top 20 ft was more like 5.2, but the Turiano guidebook describes it as 5.4. Certainly seemed Class 5, but B would probably be a better judge.

There were multiple climbing options to attain the "summit." Summit is in quotes because the true summit is a sharp pointy block about 15 ft east & 1.5 feet above the summit platform where the register is housed and would take serious balls to actually stand on - lots of exposure and no great place for anchors. I tapped it and called it good.

ph

There are a few different ways to get to the summit block. The one that is obvious is probably low 5th class. It's good jams and feels pretty solid. There's also a way around (left, I think) that is easier moves, but way more exposed and not as secure. Classic 4th class. The one Turiano suggests is better climbing, and avoids a little downclimb along the crest to the summit. Plus, if you pitch off of that one you'll likely land on the big ledge instead of half way down the SE face.

b. wrote:There are a few different ways to get to the summit block. The one that is obvious is probably low 5th class. It's good jams and feels pretty solid. There's also a way around (left, I think) that is easier moves, but way more exposed and not as secure. Classic 4th class. The one Turiano suggests is better climbing, and avoids a little downclimb along the crest to the summit. Plus, if you pitch off of that one you'll likely land on the big ledge instead of half way down the SE face.

Ah, interesting. I'll have to take a closer look the next time I'm up there. I remember looking down the SE face from the top and just being glad we took the N side option up the summit block.