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belated FYI:
New Montana alpine climbing guidebook (2012)
Select Alpine Climbs to Montana by Ron Brunckhorst
Prolitegear:
https://www.prolitegear.com/select-alpi ... ntana.html
Chessler Books
http://www.chesslerbooks.com/item/12719 ... -2012-.asp
Amazon
http://www.amazon.com/Select-Alpine-Cli ... 1467538183

This book is pretty good...but it's strictly designed for climbing. If you're a hiker/scrambler/mountaineer or someone who likes very detailed beta don't buy it.....Wait for my book to come out

Hi Matt,
Thanks for the update/input.
I'm curious, would it be possible to share with SP users a brief overview of the Montana guidebook you are working on?
Be well,
JM

At this point, yes I can...
It will be focused completely on the Montana 12ers in the Beartooth Mountains and have various routes on each of the 27 12ers from Class 1 to Class 5.

I'm working to make it as comprehensive as possible complete with color photos and maps.

Matt Lemke wrote:This book is pretty good...but it's strictly designed for climbing. If you're a hiker/scrambler/mountaineer or someone who likes very detailed beta don't buy it.....Wait for my book to come out

The description of the book at the various dealers includes this statement:

This book contains routes of all abilities, from classic mountain walk-ups to alpine big walls and ice gully climbs.


Is this not true? Also, are there routes in NW MT - like in GNP and the Cabinets?

I am assuming that you have seen or own a copy........

This is a question not a challenge, since I am considering buying a copy. I am not interested in either the uber hard routes or the walk-ups but in more moderate alpine routes.

Fred,
I do have a copy of Ron's book. Since my book will be about the Beartooth's I have read every word of his Beartooth section.

Regarding GNP I noticed he has a little more scramble route descriptions for that area...probably because the rock isn't suited for rock climbing. He has 6 peaks with brief descriptions for the Cabinet Mountains towards the end of the book and all of those are scrambles/walks. An example of one of his scramble route descriptions:

Ibex Peak 7,676' II, Class 3
(Peak introduction blah blah) The first approach is to hike trail 978. After hiking about two miles up the trail, the Northwest face comes into view. Climb the face that funnels you to the summit via gullies and ribs.

Now I would be just fine with that short of a route description...reminds me of Beckey's scramble route descriptions! but others I don't think will like it.

About half the book are climbing routes 5.8 or higher with a considerable amount of 5.10's and aid routes.

He also rates his snow climbs a little odd I think but maybe I'm just used to steepness ratings in degrees. He uses an Alpine ice rating system whereas you need glaciers for that to even be correct. There are very few glaciers remaining in Montana and you wouldn't step foot on any of them after mid-summer anyways!

Lastly, of the routes I climbed in his book so far, his ratings in the moderate climbs (5.4-5.8 ) tend to be easier than what he rates them as. I'm certain the harder ones are more correct though.

Fred, if you are looking for moderate alpine climbs throughout Montana this book will suit you well (as long as you are ok with 3-4 sentence descriptions) If you are wanting it JUST for GNP and the Cabinets I would pass.
Hope this helps,
Matt

Matt Lemke wrote:Fred,
I do have a copy of Ron's book. Since my book will be about the Beartooth's I have read every word of his Beartooth section.

Regarding GNP I noticed he has a little more scramble route descriptions for that area...probably because the rock isn't suited for rock climbing. He has 6 peaks with brief descriptions for the Cabinet Mountains towards the end of the book and all of those are scrambles/walks. An example of one of his scramble route descriptions:

Ibex Peak 7,676' II, Class 3
(Peak introduction blah blah) The first approach is to hike trail 978. After hiking about two miles up the trail, the Northwest face comes into view. Climb the face that funnels you to the summit via gullies and ribs.

Now I would be just fine with that short of a route description...reminds me of Beckey's scramble route descriptions! but others I don't think will like it.

About half the book are climbing routes 5.8 or higher with a considerable amount of 5.10's and aid routes.

He also rates his snow climbs a little odd I think but maybe I'm just used to steepness ratings in degrees. He uses an Alpine ice rating system whereas you need glaciers for that to even be correct. There are very few glaciers remaining in Montana and you wouldn't step foot on any of them after mid-summer anyways!

Lastly, of the routes I climbed in his book so far, his ratings in the moderate climbs (5.4-5.8 ) tend to be easier than what he rates them as. I'm certain the harder ones are more correct though.

Fred, if you are looking for moderate alpine climbs throughout Montana this book will suit you well (as long as you are ok with 3-4 sentence descriptions) If you are wanting it JUST for GNP and the Cabinets I would pass.
Hope this helps,
Matt

It's the same for my Wind River Range guide book. It's a lot to cover so he gives a brief synopsis. I found it nearly useless for the Cirque. Rock climbers are used to detailed route descriptions, but that would create a 3,000 page book for the Winds. You really need specialized books like Matt is working on in order to get details. Can you imagine having detailed route descripts for EVERY climb in the cirque included in the entire winds guide? I wouldn't want to haul that back!

Oh don't even get me started on the Wind Rivers guide!

This Montana guidebook is good. There's enough in there to keep the motivation/idea mill going for sometime and keep one adventuring for many years. The history and anecdotes are good history as well. Hell, the quote on page 6 ("It doesn't matter how many climbs you do, what matters is how many times you go climbing") is worth the $30.00 for the book alone. Ooops... I guess I gave that one away for free.
BTW, it looks like the amazon.com link is for ordering directly from Ron Brunckhorst. As I ordered through Amazon, he signed the copy he sent me (without request).
also:
http://www.climbmontana.com/Index.html
Be safe,
JM