Grand Teton: Stettner
Posted: Thu Aug 21, 2014 10:15 pmHey all,
This past Spring (2014), I was interested in heading to the Grand in early-mid March to climb the Teton via the Stettner/Chevy/Ford route. However, the peaks had seen an exceptionally high snowfall, making the avalanche danger very high and snow conditions very strenuous to travel in. All in all, I settled for the southern Sierra.
It was very difficult to acquire a decent amount of beta regarding the Stettner route, though. I've been reading that rockfall, in the past few years, has made the couloir less than desirable for many climbers. In terms of rappel anchors, I've also read that a lot fixed anchors have been left. I'm wondering as to what conditions these are in, and whether their availability is a function of snow height. Also, would a 60 m rope be sufficient for the longest rappel on this route?
In terms of gear, I was going to bring 4 ice screws, a two ft. picket (though I am considering cutting this in half), a set of nuts, three medium cams, and one large cam.
Any further suggested equipment or route information is welcomed!
This past Spring (2014), I was interested in heading to the Grand in early-mid March to climb the Teton via the Stettner/Chevy/Ford route. However, the peaks had seen an exceptionally high snowfall, making the avalanche danger very high and snow conditions very strenuous to travel in. All in all, I settled for the southern Sierra.
It was very difficult to acquire a decent amount of beta regarding the Stettner route, though. I've been reading that rockfall, in the past few years, has made the couloir less than desirable for many climbers. In terms of rappel anchors, I've also read that a lot fixed anchors have been left. I'm wondering as to what conditions these are in, and whether their availability is a function of snow height. Also, would a 60 m rope be sufficient for the longest rappel on this route?
In terms of gear, I was going to bring 4 ice screws, a two ft. picket (though I am considering cutting this in half), a set of nuts, three medium cams, and one large cam.
Any further suggested equipment or route information is welcomed!