SummitPost.org

Until now, I always thought men were from Mars, and women were from Alpha Centauri !!!

Thanks for setting me straight.

Foxy Long Bottoms is a freakin bad ass climber chick! She'd kick my ass up and down the crags

There's a lot of 'em that would kick my ass.

I just try my best to get along with them, and stay out of their way!

I was at the rock gym (PG Belmont) the other day and there was a six year old girl running up a 5.10d route with her dad belaying. She was doing one-arm pullups on the overhanging parts. Her dad said she thrashed a little when she got into 5.11s. Even if you completely poo-poo pulling plastic, it was pretty impressive to watch her go.

A 5.10d where the holds are close enough together for a six-year-old to be able to reach?? Must be a West Coast rating...

Flame on!

Meanwhile, that reminds me of a gym story of my own. I was watching a heavenly beauty lead the hardest route in the gym (not sure what it was at the time, they usually set a 5.12 or higher in that spot, an overhanging arete that runs up to the highest point of the gabled ceiling). Imagine my surprise when, after getting the route clean and being lowered down, she hops a few yards on one foot and PICKS UP HER CRUTCHES. Yep, 5.12 or 5.13 while wearing an ankle cast.

nartreb wrote:A 5.10d where the holds are close enough together for a six-year-old to be able to reach?? Must be a West Coast rating...

That's where some of the one arm pullups came in. She was also able to friction where no holds were in reach. As I said, pretty impressive.

nartreb wrote:A 5.10d where the holds are close enough together for a six-year-old to be able to reach?? Must be a West Coast rating...

Flame on!

Was reffing a comp at the local gym a number of years ago (onsight format). A smaller than average seven or eight year old girl was on the main wall on a pretty stiff route. She came to a section she could not in any way reach through. Backed down a couple moves, rested, tried again, after doing this three or four times on the past vert wall she powered up to the move, stuck her pinkie into an unused bolt hole, crossed with her left into another unused bolt hole and grabbed the previously out of reach hold. We debated the move for just a little (had to cause our man dude climbing skills were seriously threatened by a she child) The crowd roared, she won. Having run summer camps and coached the youth team at the gym I can say boys = bigger hammer type problem solving / Girls = more creative problem solving. Nothing new there.......and if the fairer sex has had ballet or gymnastic lessons as a child they will kick ass.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl4lEbbyx38
this girl is a little celebrity in the climbing circles in NYC, right now she is 6 and pulls V13s, I hear

I went to the “Echo Cliffs” yesterday.

We were having a good time climbing, when a party of four came walking up.

Two men and two girls, from Russia.

Yes, Echo is an international destination.

Anyway, figured the guys would be leading, girls following.

Man o man was I wrong!

These girls on sited 11b….. and did 12 with one or two hangs.

Echo is an extra hard place to on sight, hidden holds, buried in the choss.

The men, well they couldn’t get off the deck.

Beautiful.

josegarcia wrote:spray, people, spray!!!

Wait.... no, that inuendo is way too easy.

I dont care who's better at it, I just know there are not enough climbing women out there.
.
.
.
The view's better from behind, anyhow.

That little kid is awesome--thanks for the vid link!

Boys vs. girls? Seems like everyone eventually has to address their weaknesses in order to progress. As the cliches hold, men need to learn to use their feet, & women have to get stronger upstairs.

But once you get to higher levels, obviously certain types of climbs suit different climbers.

Funny thing is, I've never heard a single person say Dean Potter is cheating because of his gorilla reach, or Dave Graham isn't actually good because he uses freakish genetic pinch strength, but I frequently hear guys downgrade or justify Lynn Hill's or Steph Davis' accomplishments because they have small fingers.