SummitPost.org

Bob Burd wrote:I'm curious - is it possible to crack climb regularly and not tape? If so, what do your hands look like?

a) Like they always did - my zen-like technique allows me to jam in coarse granite, hold a dead weight of 200lbs or more and never bleed or feel pain.

b) Like the bottom of my feet with thick calluses, front and back. I'm never allowed to delicately touch another human being with them.

c) Torn and bleeding all the time. What's the big deal?

d) covered with tiny scars. I prefer face climbing.

graham wrote:What is really fun is taking a gym climber outdoors
1. Gym climber’s approach to a fingercrack (eg, Exorcist at Josh) – lieback it & whimper

2. Gym climber’s approach to slabby face – whimper & whimper

Good times!

Poor technique from the start. Lay it away...will sometimes get you up on TR but how you going to place/retrieve the gear???

PS- I never use tape, it's sort of like wearing 3 condoms . Tape really hides the feel of jams esp on smooth rock with parallel sides... read Yosemite. On super rough rock, JT, jams are pretty easy to get and big cuts usually happen when one "fights" and uses poor footwork.

And if you walk into the office on monday am with bloody, scabby hands and somebody asks some questions. Just tell them "fight club"

Guyzo wrote:.....Lay it away...will sometimes get you up on TR but how you going to place/retrieve the gear???

That's when the whimpering kicks in

I'm teasing my buddy Joe. He can climb hard 11's in the gym and has made great progress on crack climbing. But it was funny watching him start with some shaky finger locks and then just lean over and transition into a "lieback" within the first 20'. He's so freaky strong that he easily lieback the whole fingercrack up to the protruding rock fin.

graham wrote:

Guyzo wrote:.....Lay it away...will sometimes get you up on TR but how you going to place/retrieve the gear???

That's when the whimpering kicks in

I'm teasing my buddy Joe. He can climb hard 11's in the gym and has made great progress on crack climbing. But it was funny watching him start with some shaky finger locks and then just lean over and transition into a "lieback" within the first 20'. He's so freaky strong that he easily lieback the whole fingercrack up to the protruding rock fin.

Then what did he do? Bail before the crux?

Guyzo wrote: Then what did he do? Bail before the crux?

Nope, he got up the face move....with just a little whimpering I bet he'll lead this sometime this season

because its the most obvious feature like

(too bad you can't see the bottom section because of the rock in in front of it but it would look like

Looks like Sedona. That Earth Angel?

Why settle for one over the other when you can have both at the same time?



Regarding The Exorcist - shown a few pics back - that big chickenhead is going to come off oneo of these days, most likely with a climber pulling on it or standing on it. That'll make it real up there (not 5.9+ anymore...)

Sweet climbing pr0n

Crack or face, red wine or white,... The feeling of power as you pull up a crack like Flower of High Rank or the airy sensation of floating as you move up a 10c slab on zero holds. It's hard to say.

SpiderSavage wrote:Crack or face, red wine or white,... The feeling of power as you pull up a crack like Flower of High Rank or the airy sensation of floating as you move up a 10c slab on zero holds. It's hard to say.

I love the feeling of defeat, weakness, failure...... as the crack laughs at my feeble efforts.

The source of motivation.

Remember, not every face climb is a slab climb...

SpiderSavage wrote:Crack or face, red wine or white,... The feeling of power as you pull up a crack like Flower of High Rank or the airy sensation of floating as you move up a 10c slab on zero holds. It's hard to say.

aaaaaabsolutely +1

More sweet Josh crack prOn for Rob...and others

Rubicon


Equinox


O'Kelly Crack


Heart of Darkness

damn, those are nice Graham.

edit in, coupla more randomnesses:

Thanks Radek. I know you got a whole bunch of great crack pr0n in your collection