Vitaliy M. wrote:Rick, respect to you for doing it in over 24 hours. I think that's lot more work than doing it in 18 or less (know from own experience lol). Being on the move for so long kicks your ass..
The hardest part of them two attempts was waiting on the jam ups. As you know VM, those are the two critical locations that any kind of traffic jam can not be over come. The King Swing and the Roof.
On our first attempt to do it in "A Day", we almost rapped down to Jardine's cross over from the the top of the Boot and thought about stick clipping the bolts. But as we prepped to rap, we saw two other crews coming up and were just about to the anchors of both T-Flake and ECT. We were pissed to say the least. And kicked ourselves in the ass for even thinking we could get on the route and succeed with two or three crews on the ECT and T-Flake. Oh well.
All those that I know that have climbed through in a "Day" say they were all ultra lucky to only find one or two crews on the route on passable locations. That indeed is the key to doing it these days in a day.
Good on you for giving it a shot. Two run ups on the Nose in a season without a jam up is good luck to say the least.
Three 5 ***** routes that you all need to do soon where you WILL NOT find any others on, are the following:
Wyoming Sheep Ranch
The Shortest Straw
Ten Days AfterThen, after completing those three, do the following ultimate Classic "Valley" Test Piece Wall Routes of all IMO:
Jolly Roger
Sunkist
Kali Yugawith the
Porcelain Wall thrown in there for dessert.