I've just finished drooling over Diemberger's coffee table book on K2 and am now reading Bonatti's
The Mountains of My Life. I can't put it down and will have to read it again before it goes back to the library. It's amazing how skilled and courageous he was in completing those FAs/climbs, yet he's so clear expressing his fears, self-doubt, betrayal. You'd think a guy with that record would be fearless but it's probably just because he was so in touch with his humanity that he could overcome the obstacles. But it sure wasn't without a lot of hard work.
Admirable man. And Italian, to boot.