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Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:35 pm
by kkline91
I'm new to the site and sport and live in the chicago area so I don't have a chance to get into the mountains without a big time commitment. I started small by hiking a remote forest preserve called big rock which is 15 minutes from my house and I've done triathlons and been active my whole life. I'm almost 29 years old as well.

Last year I led my friends on a 5 day 43 mile hiking trip at isle royale national park. In 2010 I also took my fiance to yellowstone in hopes to climb mount sheridan on a three day backcounty trip but backed out because she wasn't ready for climbing.

For the past year I've been doing my normal workouts and hiking on the weekends and have worked up to a 70 lb pack while pulling a 60 lb sled. My goal is to get up to a 100 lb pulk with my 70lb pack on to prep for rainier and someday denali. Here is a vid of my hill I have. Its 80 feet tall and we do hill repeats after a 4.44 mile flat approach to it. Here is a video of us doing the hill. Not Cell compatible cuz I'm not a plus member of vimeo yet.
[vimeo]<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18350103" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/18350103">Kris and Jim Climbing Mount Big Rock in our training December 23rd, 2010</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user5538932">Kris Kline</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com">Vimeo</a>.</p> [/vimeo]

If that embedded video doesn't work here is the direct link:

This coming july I am again leading my friends on a trip. We are going to do mount elbert and massive on a 4 day hike. I figure none of us have ever climbed at elevation so giving two days for each mountain is the smart way to go. After this trip im going to continue to train and plan on going with REI in June of 2012 to summit Shasta under their expedition teams guidance. After Shasta in maybe August of 2012 I plan on taking a week long mountaineering training trip with one of the guide services by mount hood and rainier to get skills with the intention of climbing rainier in early summer climbing season of 2013. I'd then like to do A Rainier climb in 2013 and then try for Denali in 2014 after possibly another refresher weeklong course in Mountaineering training to keep the much needed skills.

I know there are many people on this site that have a ton of experience, and I'd like to learn from you all.

My first question is what do you all think of my goals in terms of building up to the more difficult mountains? Am I taking a path that is too easy, or am I right on?
My second question is centered around the skills based part of Mountaineering. Since I live in IL (boooooo) I don't have anywhere I can go to (thus far that I have found) that I could even use Crampons and/or practice self arrests with my ice axe. Our snow is lame because it doesn't get deep enough even to need snowshoes. Do you think that only being on crampons maybe once or twice a year when I'm out west is enough, or am I going to forget the technique's, or is is like riding a bike and once you know it you know it and then you pick it right back up when you do it again. What I don't want to do is get in over my head and kill myself because I'm ignorant of the skills needed.
I'll be sending out a separate thread too centered around gear. I've been accumulating gear and I have a good job so I have the $ to spend on good gear, but until you get into the thick of things $ can't make skill and experience appear in the blink of an eye. I just want to ask a few questions to make sure I buy the correct gear.

Also side question. Can't find on the site. How do I get embedded vimeo to work in the forum thread? I clicked on the vimeo button here on the thread and also used the embedded code that vimeo gave me from my account.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:26 pm
by Tonka
Goals are deceptive. The unaimed arrow never misses.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:54 pm
by CClaude
too slowly or too fast no one else can answer. Its something personal and what you want to do and get out of what you are doing. I understand goals, but don't get too wrapped up in them. It shouldn't be a destination but a journey, so enjoy all aspects of it. Having said that, if you do set goals, don't let others say that they are too lofty.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:27 pm
by kkline91
Thank you for your posts. I appreciate it. Id probably be hiking shasta next year if I could get the time off. I've probably watched ryan collins vimeo video while running on my treadmill 100 times. The mountains are so exciting to get out onto. Isle royale was awesome too just knowing everything I needed was on my back and my only care in the world was enjoying the hike to the next campsite.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 11:38 pm
by Arthur Digbee
I like the fact that you're being deliberate. That's smart. We often see newbies with "How do I get up Everest in a year?" kinds of questions.

In addition to what you're already thinking about, I'd think more explicitly about what you want. Physical challenge? Skill development? Getting outdoors? (Isle Royale was a great choice btw) Great scenery? (Colorado Rockies, Utah canyons) Or do you just want to bag peaks and make a list?

All are legit. But your motives will affect your goals, and that will affect your strategy.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 12:16 am
by Tonka
kkline91 wrote:Thank you for your posts. I appreciate it. Id probably be hiking shasta next year if I could get the time off. I've probably watched ryan collins vimeo video while running on my treadmill 100 times. The mountains are so exciting to get out onto. Isle royale was awesome too just knowing everything I needed was on my back and my only care in the world was enjoying the hike to the next campsite.


My first outings were on Isle Royale and the BWCA. I really consider most of my current outings my first outings because as I gain new skills everything is new. You said you had a good job....that's good. Don't waste money on gear you'll never use because you will need it for travel expenses (midwest). I live in MN and flew 60,000 miles in 2010 and not one of those miles was for business. I can only hope to go more places this year.

Late 80's on Isle Royale. Poser!
Image

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 2:02 am
by aglane
Tonka wrote:Goals are deceptive. The unaimed arrow never misses.


+1 A fine reply.

Alternatively, KKline, having multiple goals or general goals--and that seems to be what you're doing--is always a good option.

Chas. Houston, K-2 expedition climber, wrote in his obituary of Noel Odell (the last man to see Mallory and Irvine before they disappeared on Everest) that Odell climbed for the joy, not the achievement. Achievements will come with the joy. And you've learned much of that already, on Isle Royale, and elsewhere. Aim for where you're going in the moment, and don't worry about long tick-lists that extend out too far in time.

Perhaps we'll meet at Devils Lake. And there is some ice in Illinois and Wisconsin....

And what do I know, I'm a re-newbie loving every minute the last half dozen years after decades of laying off.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 3:39 am
by kkline91
Tonka wrote:
kkline91 wrote:Thank you for your posts. I appreciate it. Id probably be hiking shasta next year if I could get the time off. I've probably watched ryan collins vimeo video while running on my treadmill 100 times. The mountains are so exciting to get out onto. Isle royale was awesome too just knowing everything I needed was on my back and my only care in the world was enjoying the hike to the next campsite.


My first outings were on Isle Royale and the BWCA. I really consider most of my current outings my first outings because as I gain new skills everything is new. You said you had a good job....that's good. Don't waste money on gear you'll never use because you will need it for travel expenses (midwest). I live in MN and flew 60,000 miles in 2010 and not one of those miles was for business. I can only hope to go more places this year.

Late 80's on Isle Royale. Poser!
Image


I've got a great video on my vimeo site of my friend discovering on the first night that he bought a junior sized sleeping bag. I may need to start a thread just for that because it's hilarious.

I'm almost done with gear I just need a helmet and plastic boots and crampons and I'm all set. I keep looking for the deals at rei to keep it cheap.

I love that pic on isle royale. Next time I'm hitting the west end of the island.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:46 pm
by kkline91
Gary Schenk wrote:Living in Chicago, you should become a caver, not a mountaineer. You're very close to some of the best caving in the world. You're a long way from the mountains. So while you save your trips to the mountains for vacation once a year, be hitting those caves year round. Lots of skills you learn caving will translate outdoors. For one things, your friends will be amazed at your mad prussiking skills!

Today my buddy was working on me to make the trip to cave of swallows.
I like the draw of the mountains because I like to try the hardest physical challenges. The cool thing about mountaineering to me is you can combine being super strong with high levels of stamina. Then of course throw in the technical parts and to me it seems that mountaineering requires a lot of different skillsets which I like. I used to be bigtime into bodybuilding and strongman in college. Then I got into triathlons and realized that 6 hour races were really cool. Now all I want to do is spend dawn till dusk hiking. My fiancee even loves it and tags along packless! Im also trying to recreate conditions ill see while climbing. I slept outside in my backyard one night in december at 19 degrees and was amazed I slept awesome. Im heading out again this saturday night cuz its supposed to get down close to 0.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:50 pm
by kkline91
Gary Schenk wrote:Living in Chicago, you should become a caver, not a mountaineer. You're very close to some of the best caving in the world. You're a long way from the mountains. So while you save your trips to the mountains for vacation once a year, be hitting those caves year round. Lots of skills you learn caving will translate outdoors. For one things, your friends will be amazed at your mad prussiking skills!

Today my buddy was working on me to make the trip to cave of swallows.
I like the draw of the mountains because I like to try the hardest physical challenges. The cool thing about mountaineering to me is you can combine being super strong with high levels of stamina. Then of course throw in the technical parts and to me it seems that mountaineering requires a lot of different skillsets which I like. I used to be bigtime into bodybuilding and strongman in college. Then I got into triathlons and realized that 6 hour races were really cool. Now all I want to do is spend dawn till dusk hiking. My fiancee even loves it and tags along packless! Im also trying to recreate conditions ill see while climbing. I slept outside in my backyard one night in december at 19 degrees and was amazed I slept awesome. Im heading out again this saturday night cuz its supposed to get down close to 0. I figure I should recreate anything I can before any serious climbs to make sure I don't become overwhelmed when it all comes at me at one time. Night one at isle royale my best friend had a mini meltdown cuz he was tossed way out of his element. I got him settled down but learned a lesson from it. You never know how you'll react to something until you experience it firsthand.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 9:48 pm
by Grampahawk
If you really want to get into this you should move to an area where you can more easily find some terrain to hone your skills. I just passed on a really nice job opportunity in your area because I'd have no mountains.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:15 pm
by kkline91
Grampahawk wrote:If you really want to get into this you should move to an area where you can more easily find some terrain to hone your skills. I just passed on a really nice job opportunity in your area because I'd have no mountains.

Oh I hear ya. Preaching to the choir lol. I've got a condo and house to sell and now with real estate tanked I think im stuck for a little while until it rebounds enough to make it wise to sell. No worries anyway at least we still have seasons here. If I lived in the south with no winter id be really hosed trying to train without snow.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Sun Jan 16, 2011 8:39 pm
by gphillips
I am not affiliated with them in any way, but I would highly recommend taking a NOLS mountaineering course. The full course is 31 days long, but they have a shortened version (17 days) of their North Cascades course for 23-and-over adults. I know it would be a serious commitment of time and money, but the skills you will develop on this type of course are a lifelong investment. REI and RMI guided climbs will get you to the summit and will teach you a few things, but they will not give you the comprehensive skill-set that you need to independently undertake serious mountaineering objectives. I did things the old-fashioned way - a years-long apprenticeship in the mountains with experienced mountaineers - but you don't really have that option. If I could do it over again, I would go the NOLS route in a heartbeat. Some of the best mountaineers I know are NOLS-trained. Just my two cents.

Re: Goal questions as a new climber to the sport

PostPosted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 2:37 am
by kkline91
gphillips wrote:I am not affiliated with them in any way, but I would highly recommend taking a NOLS mountaineering course. The full course is 31 days long, but they have a shortened version (17 days) of their North Cascades course for 23-and-over adults. I know it would be a serious commitment of time and money, but the skills you will develop on this type of course are a lifelong investment. REI and RMI guided climbs will get you to the summit and will teach you a few things, but they will not give you the comprehensive skill-set that you need to independently undertake serious mountaineering objectives. I did things the old-fashioned way - a years-long apprenticeship in the mountains with experienced mountaineers - but you don't really have that option. If I could do it over again, I would go the NOLS route in a heartbeat. Some of the best mountaineers I know are NOLS-trained. Just my two cents.

Thanks I'll check them out. Would love to do a 17 day course if I could make the time off work.