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Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 2:41 am
by fredzurensick
As a fairly inexperienced climbger, I am comfortable on snow slopes, but have never been on a glacier before. Whats the best way to learn?

Re: Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:11 am
by JanG
You are quite close to the excellent spot. Go sign up for the climb of Mt Rainier= the only option is to join the climb of Rainier Mountaineering (RMI) because they monopolize the climb. The 3-day package includes a compulsory snow & ice course on day 1 followed by the 2-day climb of Rainier. You bet that they will teach you how to move on snow, ice & self-arrest.

I took my 2 sons on the package (they were aged 16 & 18 y at the time) and we all had great experiences.

Lots of luck

JanG

Re: Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 7:13 am
by mrchad9
If you really want to learn and have the money, I would select something where the focus is on training rather than a guided ascent of a summit.

There is a 6 day course here that I did, which was very good, but they also have a 3 day version.

http://www.aai.cc/ProgramDetail/glacierskills/

Or, just get a book and a friend or two and go out and practice. It isn't too hard.

I have this one and it is pretty decent.

Image

Re: Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 5:11 pm
by fredzurensick
Thanks for the replies. I like your ideas Mr. Chad. Rather than blow money on a guided climb on which they wouldn't teach how to lead and route find on a glacier, a book and a friend sounds much more economical. Would you recommend getting the book if I already have freedom of the hills?

Re: Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:14 pm
by mrchad9
I have both books and I used the one above as a resource. It is nice even just from the standpoint of not having to carry around a book as large as Freedom of the Hills if you are heading out with it.

I don't have Freedom of the Hills in front of me at the moment, so cannot comment on how complete it is. As I remember it is probably fine, but there is likely some additional detail and suggestions in the glacier book on setting up various crevasse rescue systems. I think FOTH is probably fine for the routefinding.

You could start with FOTH, and get the other book if you need more or want something lighter. Or to put it this way, the additional book will be an definitely be an asset but not critical.

Re: Learning Glacier Travel

PostPosted: Fri Jul 22, 2011 6:45 pm
by MoapaPk