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Hi all, new to the forum!

I have only recently gained more advanced experience in the mountains since travelling in South America. I have always loved the mountains, but living in Australia, I did not really have access to anything too serious. After spending 6 months in Ecuador, I climbed roughly 10 peaks with a group ranging from straight hiking to a few that involved some serious scrambling with a few rappels. Also I summited Cotopaxi, and was about 2/3 way up Cayambe before been turned around by avalanche danger. I also did some simple ice climbing in Peru (maybe a 15m wall).

I am now in Bolivia, and I'm hoping to do something a bit more technical than the Ecuadorian volcanoes. Here is where I need your advice, to see what is a reasonable next step or what is simply stupid or dangerous. I am thinking of doing a 4 day trip to the Condoriri massif. I can initially climb Pequeno Alpamayo which whilst very exposed is not at all technical, and then one more peak. The main peak - Cabeza del Condor is a mixed climb of rock and ice and is rated at AD+. I am guessing this is too advanced for my limited experience, but I would be using an experienced guide and would really be going there to experience a more advanced climb and to expand my skill set for further expeditions, rather than to just reach the peak. There are also less technical climbs in the area, but I am wondering what you would consider to be reasonable.

I am yet to talk to the actual guides to see what they say, as I don't trust the sales people in the offices who are willing to send anyone up a mountain. Again, I would almost view this as an advanced short coarse where bagging the peak would just be a nice bonus.

Looking forward to your input, cheers.

You have several options there.

The Condoriri area is great- Pequeno Alpamayo is a great one with a short section of moderately steep climbing. I don't think that Cabeza de Condor is too much of a stretch for you assuming you have a good guide and good conditions. The summit ridge is very exposed, though. I would also consider Huanya Potosi which is in the area. Illimani is also reasonable for you to try with your guide.

If you have time, the volcanoes in Sajama NP are good slogs that aren't very technical although they are high. Climbing here feels much different than it does in the Cordillera Real. They also tend to be windier and somewhat colder.

Suerte!

Woodie

Hey Woodie

Thanks for the info. At this point in time I would prefer to do a smaller mountain as my physical condition is not ideal for big mountains, Cotopaxi was tough and I really need to spend serious time building up endurance to tackle the bigger mountains.

Glad to hear you think that the Cabeza de Condora is a viable option, I think it would be a great learning experience and a great introduction to the more serious side of climbing. I am planning to do Huanya Potosi too, and hope that this will be a solid building block for future expeditions.

Cheers

You're being sensible and getting beta and advice for your next climbs. Well done and good luck

Just an update.

If conditions are right, I will be attempting the direct route on Pequeno Alpamayo. Will be placing plenty of protection and taking our time. After that it will be the Cabeza de Condor. Very excited to be doing this, thanks for the input.